Forward facing sonar (FFS), or what I like to call live sonar, stands as one of the most revolutionary new technologies in angling. Offered by brands such as Garmin, Humminbird and Lowrance, FFS paints real-time, ultrasound-like screen images of structure and fish as far as 500 feet from the boat. Popularized largely by freshwater tournament bass anglers, FFS opens new opportunities to target big fish and determine how they are behaving before wetting a line.

Forward facing sonar is definitely changing the nature of angling. I will let you be the judge if that’s a good change or not. But no matter how you feel, the genie is already out of the bottle. That being the case, Berkley is matching this dramatic technology trend with three lines of remarkable lures designed specifically for fishing with FFS.

Quicklook: Best Berkley Forward Facing Sonar Lures

• Krej: Uniquely engineered jerk bait with an upside-down bill and backward darting action
• Finisher: A hovering hard bait designed to maximize hang time within the FFS sonar beam
• Power Switch: Soft-plastic bait with an internal leadhead that offers a tantalizing action when twitched, and reflects sonar signals exceedingly well

Breaking Down Berkley’s Lures for Forward Facing Sonar

“Berkley is the leader in science-based bait development, and we take pride in providing anglers with the best solution to help them catch fish in any environment,” says Jon Schlosser, Berkley’s chief brand and product officer. “We’ve known that forward-facing sonar was coming and have spent the past few years learning about the trend in anticipation of it catching on.

“Berkley Labs has been able to create some truly special baits that are proven to catch more fish with FFS,” Schlosser adds. “It’s exciting to see how revolutionary these baits are, not only in their design, but in how they enable anglers to manipulate their baits in ways that have never been done before.”

Krej

This odd name is actually “jerk” spelled backward, which is fitting since the Krej sports an upside-down bill and works its way upward and backslides toward fish chasing this hard bait. This not only entices fish to bite, but also keeps the lure in the live-sonar beam strike zone for extended periods of time, providing anglers with more chances to see how fish are responding and tease them into biting.

“The Krej is a bait that performs like no other hard bait, especially when paired with forward-facing sonar,” says Dan Spengler, senior project engineer of bait and terminal tackle for Berkley. “Over two years to develop, the bait’s upturned bill gives anglers several ways to manipulate it, providing a solution to the current gaps when using forward-facing sonar.” The 100 mm bait sinks at a foot per second and is available in 10 color patterns. $14.99 – Shop now

Finisher

The Finisher hard bait optimizes time in the FFS sonar beam by “hovering” and moving laterally in the water column with minimal retrieve progression. This lets the angler effectively maneuver the bait based on how the fish is reacting to it, as observed on the live-sonar display. The fin-less glide bait’s weight-forward design also allows for precision casts, fast drop-ins, and a wide range of actions, according to Berkley. The perpendicular line-tie maintains knot position at all times.

“What makes this bait unique is that it has no fin structure, which can allow it to do a multitude of actions,” Spengler says. Its flat bottom lets it hover or hang in the water column, enabling anglers to control how the lure is interacting with fish spotted on FFS, he explains. The Finisher comes with two Fusion19 treble hooks, and is available in 500, 700 and 900 mm sizes and 20 color patterns. $8.99 to $10.99 – Shop now

PowerBait Power Switch

The Berkley PowerBait Power Switch gives anglers the control to quickly switch techniques (hence the name) in response to how the fish are behaving as observed on FFS.

When a fish is located on FFS, the window to catch the fish can close fast. Power Switch lets anglers present their bait as quickly and precisely as possible with an internal leadhead that creates strong sonar returns. The weight-forward design of this soft-plastic bait allows for precision casts, fast fall rates and a wide range of actions. Packed with PowerBait flavor and pre-rigged with a Fusion19 hook, Power Switch appeals to a wide range of species, according to Berkley. 

“This bait can sink fast, hover at the angler’s desired water column, with each action working together in one profile,” says Kyle Peterson, project engineer for Berkley. “It gives anglers everything they need to best interact with fish, especially when paired with forward-facing sonar.” The Power Switch features a natural baitfish profile and 3D eyes, and comes in 1.75-, 2.5, 3-, 4.25 and 5-inch versions. It is available in standard, HD Tru Color and holographic “wizard” colors—14 color patterns in all. $9.99 – View all the options

FAQ

The post 3 Specialized Lures for Forward Facing Sonar appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

“HOLD ON!” yells Capt. Shane Jarvis, and you’d better listen because he’s spotted diving birds and spinner dolphins on his Simrad radar. That means just one thing: surface-busting yellowfin tuna. He points the boat in their direction and guns the twin outboards in search of sashimi.

Jarvis has established an island retreat in Panama’s Gulf of Chiriquí, 30 miles from the Costa Rican border. No purse seiners are allowed in Panamanian waters, so the fishery remains fertile. Anglers can chase billfish, mahi and inshore species, often in the same day, but the marauding tuna are typically the biggest draw. Massive schools thunder around and anglers who can intercept them reap the benefits. His base on Isla Parida, 10 miles offshore, puts him closest to the action.

“The tuna are here year-round, but the bait really moves in with huge pods of dolphin from April to August,” he said. He’ll locate the action with his radar, and attempt to cut it off. “You want to figure out the direction they’re moving. When they’re in super-tight groups, you can do that, but some bait — like flying fish and squid — can’t be herded. They’re more erratic.”

Upon arrival to the action, anglers try to launch a Yo-Zuri Bull Pop or Mag Popper into the midst of the frenzy. At first, some are too awed by the airborne tuna to act. If the fish go down, it’s time to start all over again, searching the radar for action that could have moved miles away in the blink of an eye. All too often, though, one or more anglers hook up.

“The key is to loudly pop the lure one or two times so the fish can hear and see it,” Jarvis explained. “Then move it faster … pop-pop-pop-pop. When you hook up, apply as much pressure as you can from the get-go. It pays to be in good shape.” That’s because while the tuna tend to school up by size, a 200-pounder can suddenly appear in a group of 20- to 60-pounders.

Jarvis, as part of Sport Fish Panama Island Lodge, has outfitted his three World Cats and one Freeman with custom front casting platforms and protective rails. The latter prevent anglers from going in the drink when casting or battling a giant yellowfin. He uses specialized popping rods from Blackfin and Shimano Twin Power 14000 spinning reels spooled with 65-pound test Yo-Zuri Superbraid and a shock leader of 80-pound test Super Fluoro.

At night, anglers return exhausted to the lodge’s compound on Isla Parida, and the biggest decision for the following day is whether to go on another hunt for tuna, or to focus on billfish and inshore species. Fortunately, it’s not a single decision that must be made. In fact, while this may be tuna popping paradise, and there’s nothing wrong with chasing them exclusively, variety is the region’s true calling card. Just don’t fall into the trap of thinking that the other species will give you a rest. Befitting the Jurassic Park-style scenery, everything here is prehistoric, mean, and willing to fight to exhaustion.

Planning a Trip

When to Go

The yellowfin are in the Gulf of Chiriquí year-round, and can be caught on surface lures any month, but prime popping takes place from early April through the beginning of August, when the bait is bunched up the best and the seas are calm. The rainy season starts in late summer and runs through the end of October, plus Jarvis closes down the lodge in September and October. The fishing is still good, but it may be uncomfortable to be out there. Opportunities to catch billfish and mahi increase on the edges of the rainy periods. Inshore fishing for species including roosterfish and cubera snapper is good all the time.

Where to Go and How to Get There

Getting to Sport Fish Panama Island Lodge. Anglers fly into Panama City’s Tocumen Airport, the largest in Central America, which is served by numerous major airlines and has direct flights from over a dozen North American cities. From there, the package includes expedited immigration, all transfers, and a night at the Hilton. The next morning, anglers fly to the city of David on a Copa jet, take a five minute ride to the airport, and an hour boat ride through the estuary to Isla Parida.

Panama City is exceptionally cosmopolitan and safe. During the stopover, tours can be arranged of the Panama Canal or Casco Viejo portion of the city. Isla Parida is in a national park, which includes World Heritage Site Isla Coiba, known for its incredible diving and whale watching.

The post Panama’s Topwater Yellowfins appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

The origins of kite-fishing predate European contact with native Polynesians, who used rudimentary kites to move their live baits beyond distant surf lines. During the pre-World War II days of sport fishing on the West Coast, “Tuna” George Farnsworth dangled live sardines from kites for tuna and billfish near Catalina Island off California. And for the past 60 or so years of kite-fishing in Florida waters, scores of goggle-eyes and blue runners have been hung from kites on a near-daily basis.

Kites deploy live baits, and they do it quite effectively. Recently, however, an expanding number of anglers have discovered the advantages of kite-fishing with artificial lures. These artificials are commonly trolled as opposed to being dangled while adrift, or while holding station. In fact, many professionals agree that in the right place, at the right time, when you have the right conditions, kite-fishing with artificials can kick live bait’s butt.

Trolling with Artificial Lures from a Kite

Kite-fishing with lures involves different techniques than live-baiting because the boat is always trolling at 6 or 7 knots. Captains fly only one kite at a time and use only one line at a time. They employ either a standard square kite, such as those made by AFTCO and Bob Lewis, or a foil-style or sled kite, such as the Boston Big Game Fishing Club kite, which can fly in a wide range of wind conditions. Captains also crank down on the release-clip ­tension because the tuna often smack the lure several times before managing to engulf it.

Virtually any pelagic predator might hit a kite-fished artificial on any given day. But when we talked with pros from different parts of the country, they all stated that they kite-fish with artificials only when targeting tuna.

“Yes, sure we’ve had mahi, sailfish, and even blue marlin hit a kite bait,” says Capt. Chris Kubik, of Point Runner Charters, out of North Carolina’s Oregon Inlet. “But this technique is really all about the yellowfin. It’s an extremely effective method of fishing during the summer, when yellowfin are in blue water eating flying fish. They can get kind of sketchy, and sometimes getting your lure far away from the boat with a kite is the best move.

“You need to get the lure far from the white water, off to the side of the boat, and let out just enough line that it skips—not drags—across the surface. This can mean making constant adjustments to the kite and to the fishing line.”

Far to the south of Kubik, Miami’s Capt. Bouncer Smith also fingers tuna as the prime target. “In our area, this is a very targeted, very specific way of fishing that is almost exclusively for yellowfin and blackfin tuna,” Smith says. “April, May, and June, especially, when there are a lot of blackfin around, is when you want to try this. Sure, occasionally a mahi or a sailfish will join the party, but they’re just a bonus.”

More than 2,700 miles away, on the opposite side of the nation, in Huntington Beach, California, Capt. Mark Smith, the owner of CharkBait, also flies artificials from kites specifically to tempt tunas. “It’s unusual for bluefin to spend so much time in our waters,” Smith explains. “But for four years now, they’ve been around in really good numbers. For a while they were oriented deep, and jigging caught the fish, but then two years ago, the tuna seemed more oriented toward the surface. And it was trolling plastic ­flying fish from kites that got them biting. Some guys in the know had been doing it for a while, but the popularity of the tactic just became explosive.”

Kite Fishing Causes A Surface Disturbance

Smith’s use of the word “explosive” doesn’t just denote the sudden popularity of the method on the West Coast, but it’s also an indication of why the method has become so popular, regardless of where it’s being applied.

“It’s always more exciting to see a big surface explosion,” Smith says, “and fishing this way is sort of like a recreational take on green-sticking. The lures are right at or even over the surface, so fish almost always blow up when they hit.”

All three of these captains agreed that the tactics producing the best results also tend to produce the most adrenaline-inducing eruptions. “Your lure—and we usually use a soft-plastic flying fish—should always be in blue water, not the white water behind the boat,” Kubik advises.

If it’s really calm, Capt. Bouncer Smith adds, “and there aren’t enough waves for the flying fish to come out of the water and skitter across the surface, you need to jerk the line and make it happen. It should be really flying, maybe going 10 to 15 feet before it touches the water again.”

Read Next: Kite Trolling for Pacific Bluefin Tuna

Why not use live baits from the kite in this situation? These captains noted that a live bait doesn’t stay alive very long if you skip it from a kite while trolling, and that rigged dead baits aren’t nearly as durable as plastics for this purpose. The experts also noted that sometimes when live baits aren’t readily available, the kite-skipping artificial technique can be used as a backup.

But whatever the reason for kite-­fishing with artificials might be, one thing seems apparent: No matter where you live, if tunas prowl your home waters, chances are there will be a time and a situation in which a kite-trolled artificial will be the most effective offering.

Flying Fish Lures

Anglers won’t find a wide range of artificials from which to choose for kite-fishing: Carolina Lures’ Yummee Flying Fish was often mentioned as the go-to. Huntington Beach, California, Capt. Mark Smith, whose company—CharkBait (charkbait​.com)—produces its own plastic flying fish, unsurprisingly uses his own version.

“We came up with the design specifically to get the leader out of the water,” says Jim McKeral, purveyor of Carolina Lures. “Sometimes in clear blue water, the yellowfin won’t hit anything with heavy leaders, and in the past, we were using some ridiculously light line just trying to get bites. We knew skipping the lure from a kite would get the leader out of the water, and flying fish naturally jump out of the water when tuna are chasing them.”

The post Kite-Fishing with Plastic Baits appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

A topwater plug, jerkbait or diving lure with multiple treble hooks commonly snags fish in several anatomical locations: mouth, side, belly, tail. That keeps the fish hooked, but it certainly hampers a quick release.

Thoughtful captains who release all or most of their fish usually replace treble hooks with single hooks. Of course, single hooks don’t offer as high a hookup rate as trebles, in part because of basic math: Replacing two trebles with two single hooks means using only two hook points instead of six. But removing single hooks from a fish is easier and faster.

“If I know I’m going to catch-and-release fish, I don’t want a treble on my lures,” says Capt. Glyn Austin (going​coastalcharters.com) of Palm Bay, Florida, who fishes the Indian River for snook, redfish, seatrout and tarpon, and the waters offshore of Sebastian Inlet for sharks and big jack crevalle. “Especially an aggressive fish, they’ll suck in a lure and die.”

Texas captain Chad Kinney agrees. “If I’m going out for fun, I don’t want to whack any fish,” says Kinney (bammbammfishing.com), who ­targets seatrout and redfish in the Lower Laguna Madre out of Port Mansfield. “I’ll replace the trebles right off the bat.”

The main reason to switch from a treble to a single hook is to do less damage to the fish, adds Capt. Matt Williams (missjudycharters.com), who fishes lures with single hooks whether he’s targeting seatrout, tarpon, striped bass and redfish out of his home base in Savannah, Georgia, or silver salmon in Alaska. “If you’ve already caught your limit, that would be a good time to switch over to single hooks.”

Single Advantages
In addition to protecting fish, most single hooks prove stronger than treble hooks, which can be ­straightened or mashed by big fish. “Many lure-makers use light treble hooks for the best action,” says Austin, who replaces those trebles with heavier, thicker single hooks. “If you’ve got a big snook, redfish, trout or jack, the fish might mangle the treble hooks on a lot of inshore lures. I’ve had hooks destroyed after catching one fish.”

Williams points out that pliers ­easily damage treble hooks during hook removal. “It doesn’t matter how careful you are, you’ll bend the hook.” He adds that single hooks don’t horribly tangle in a landing net like trebles.

“I’ve also noticed you don’t lose as many fish with a single hook. They don’t tend to come off,” he says, noting that because a single hook features a wider gap than the hooks on a comparably sized treble, the single better penetrates the fish’s mouth.

Changing Hooks
To change out hooks, captains use split-ring pliers to first spread open the ring that attaches the hook to the plug. Austin carries two sizes of split-ring pliers in his boat so he can work on the big topwater plugs that he throws for sharks as well as his smaller inshore lures.

“You’ve got to have a good pair of split-ring pliers,” Austin says. “Big treble hooks can be hard to remove, and I can promise you that you won’t be opening split rings with your ­fingernails or a knife.”

With or without split-ring pliers, “there’s a pretty good chance you’re going to hook yourself,” says Williams, who uses a second pair of pliers — needle-­nose style — to hold and remove a treble. “I basically use them like two hands so I don’t really have to handle the hook at all.”

Some anglers attach a second split ring to the one that came with the lure, and then attach a single hook to the supplemental ring. That’s commonly done on high-end custom lures that feature hook hangers perpendicular to the lure body. Austin, a Rapala pro staffer, uses only the original split ring “because that [second ring] is just another c­onnection that could fail.”

Read Next: Top Hook Modifications for Lures

Replacement single hooks vary in style and size depending on the lure and your target fish. One of Kinney’s favorite topwater lures, a Heddon One Knocker Spook, comes with two No. 2 treble hooks. He also fishes a Super Spook, which, depending on its size, sports two or three No. 4 trebles. He replaces the trebles with Gamakatsu Octopus hooks ranging in size from 2/0 to 4/0.

“The size of the hook depends on what we’re targeting,” Kinney says. “I try to stay as small as possible and still get a good hook-set.”

Austin chooses the biggest single hooks he can use without impeding the lure’s action, which is something he determined through trial and error. A single hook that’s too heavy or too big can make a suspending lure sink too fast.

At times, Austin attaches one single hook to the back eye on the lure, which usually results in better lure action and makes for quicker releases. “It’s typically when you’re fishing for school fish like bluefish and jacks, as well as sharks, that you want to be able to unhook easily.”

Williams says a general rule of thumb is to put 2/0 single hooks on 4-inch lures and No. 2 hooks on smaller 2½- to 3-inch topwater and suspending lures like those made by Rapala. He ­prefers in-line hooks, such as those from Eagle Claw, Owner, Mustad and VMC, with eyes turned 90 degrees from the angle of traditional hook eyes.

They “hang and ride better under plugs,” he adds. “They’re a little more expensive [than regular single hooks], but if you’re putting them on a plug, you’re not going to lose them, like if you’re bait-fishing and going to have stuff chopped off or hooking the ­bottom, so they’re worth the extra money.”

Austin adds that traditional single hooks point to one side or the other of a lure, while in-line hooks ride straight up and down, which allows them to hook fish that swipe from either side.

Rigging Directions
Williams fishes a variety of topwater plugs that he rigs with single hooks. His favorites include the Rapala Skitter Walk and Skitter V, Bomber Badonk-A-Donk, Super Spook Jr. and Chug’n Spook, and MirrOlure Top Dog, She Dog and Pro Dog.

“It’s important when you’re putting on single hooks that you face them in the right direction,” he says, explaining that the hooks are opposite each other. “The front hook bend faces the front of the lure, and the rear hook bend faces the back. It almost looks like a W. If the front hook bend faces backward, when you work the lure, the hook can ride up and run next to the lure, which almost hides the hook.”

Austin uses Rapala’s line of ­subsurface lures that are already rigged with single hooks, such as the X-Rap Twitchin’ Minnow and Mullet. He doesn’t switch out trebles for single hooks on topwater plugs.

“With topwater lures, you miss quite a few fish already, and I don’t want to miss more fish,” explains Austin, who experimented with single hooks on a Skitter Walk. “Now I’m going to throw a monkey wrench into that: When I go off the beach and throw poppers for sharks, I fish Williamson lures with single hooks. Big jacks, blacktip sharks — they just annihilate it.”

But Williams, who uses Skitter Walks with single hooks for salmon in Alaska, says just seeing a big silver hit a topwater is a thrill. “If you miss some fish, it’s not the end of the world,” he says. “It’s the ‘take’ for topwater that makes it so exciting. Even if you miss the fish, you’re still getting hits that you can see. It’s almost as much fun as when you catch them.”

The post Switch Multiple Hooks for Singles to Improve Catch-and-Release appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

The Louisiana Delta offers legendary inshore fishing opportunities. The Cajun Fishing Adventures lodge in Buras, about 15 miles north of Venice, offers a great launch spot for fishing an enormous variety of bays and creeks, both salty and nearly fresh. Summertime redfishing here means sightcasting for keeper drum or popping corks and artificial lures for bulls.

For three days of hardcore casting — and dodging the ever-marching August rainstorms — I joined a group of fishing writers and industry reps for Z-Man, Skeeter, Huk, LiveTarget, 13Fishing, and Power-Pole. Using the lodge as our home base, thanks to its owner Ryan Lambert as our host, we fanned out in half a dozen shallow-water boats. The groups returned at the end of each day with sometimes-amusing stories of success, some truly tinged with a little Cajun magic.

Lucky 13?

The night before our first day on the water, Jose Chavez from 13Fishing rigged up dozens of Omen Green and Fate Green spin and baitcasting outfits. The company makes rods for saltwater and freshwater fishing.

Nearly Live

A box full of realism: LiveTarget lures in many shapes and sizes, including mullet, menhaden, shrimp and sardine. This particular selection was compiled for my home waters of south coastal Georgia, but I used several of the baits on the Delta.

Backcountry Bronze

Capt. C.A. Richardson, creator of Flats Class TV and a charter captain based in Tampa, Florida, prepares to release a slot-sized red as one of the many ubiquitous summer squalls lurks in the background. Richardson travels to Buras every summer to run charters sightcasting for reds in the normally clear waters of this region’s creeks and bays. With his Hell’s Bay flats skiff, he can pole in significantly skinnier water than most bay boats.

During our first-day trip, Richardson’s eyes were constantly on the weather radar as he deftly dodged the storm cells and led Z-Man president Jonathan Zucker and I to double-digit redfish releases. We were rigged up with Z-Man DieZel MinnowZ on Trout Eye Jigheads.

Richardson poled through small creeks, and we looked for reds along the roseau cane shorelines and in the mats of vegetation just off the banks. Besides reds, we saw dozens of gar fish of all sizes.

Seal the Deal

Z-Man’s Jonathan Zucker with an impressive marsh red that ate a DieZel MinnowZ in a color called “The Deal.”

Guide’s Choice

Richardson keeps a rigged rod tucked into his belt behind his back. He poles quietly through the shallows, and when he sees a redfish that neither of his anglers can get a lead on, he casts to the fish. Cast ahead of the fish and then bump the bait a few times, and the rest is redfish history.

Why Did the Cow Cross the Creek?

We couldn’t quite tell if these cows were just cooling off in the creek or if they were contemplating swimming across. In any case, it was an odd site during a fishing trip.

Bullish Morning

Our second morning, Capt. Cody Obiol pointed his boat to an open bay where birds dived feverishly on small menhaden. Again, we were greeted with a mixture of sunshine and storm cells.

Cork Rig

While birds dived into the water’s surface, redfish slammed the menhaden schools from below, which created significant oily slicks. With the trolling motor down, we started casting to the slicks and ripping our cork rigs back toward us. The cup-faced corks — trailed by a Z-Man MinnowZ — create white bubble trails that bull reds can’t resist.

On the Hook

Capt. Cody Obiol hooks the first bull red of the morning.

Rainy Red

Passing rain showers did nothing to dampen the bite.

Louisiana Staple

Zucker (left) and Obiol admire the first bull red of the day. Although Louisiana waters host abundant bull drum as well as many other spectacular species, one never knows whether the bite will stay on, or whether storm conditions might require a quick exit. Moral: Exult over every fish!

Head and Shoulders

Guessing a redfish’s weight can be tricky. One with a fairly large head and shoulders — like this one caught by Huk’s Chris Ellis — can weigh more than its length seems to suggest.

Neon Bright

When the bull red bite waned, Obiol took us north to some smaller creeks to sightcast keeper reds, like this bright bronze beauty that came home with us for supper.

Double Trouble

On our final day of fishing, Capt. Jude Montet took me and Zucker back to the open bay east of Buras to hunt more redfish slicks. Before we were chased back to the dock by storms, we doubled up on this pair of bulls.

The post Sightcasting and Popping for Louisiana Marsh Redfish appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

For many years when I fished at deep-water destinations outside of the tropics — such as in British Columbia, Iceland and Norway — I only used metal jigs in various shapes, sizes and colors for species like cod, halibut, lingcod and rockfish. However, I don’t think I’ve used a jig on my last dozen trips; instead I favor dropping weighted shads such as the Storm Wildeye Giant Jigging Shad and the smaller Storm Ultra Shads.

I find several advantages to using rubber shads versus metal jigs. When using the larger sizes, you catch bigger fish, as the small fish simply can’t fit the big lures in their mouths. Also, jigging often results in foul-hooked fish; with shads, almost every fish you catch will be cleanly hooked in the mouth. Finally, when fish bite a metal jig, they immediately realize it’s not real. When they grab a rubber shad, most remain interested for surprisingly long distances before finally eating the bait.

The larger jigging shads typically weigh in excess of 16 ounces, and they can measure 12 inches or more in length. Smaller weighted shads range from 6 to 8 inches long and weigh 4 to 6 ounces.

I fish heavier shads using a 20- to 30-pound-class boat rod matched with a Shimano Torium 16 or 20 high-speed reel, which makes cranking lures from deep water as easy as possible. I load the reel with 30- to 40-pound PowerPro, terminating in a 20-foot clear, monofilament shock leader of around 80-pound-test. I attach the lure to the end of the leader using a very strong snap swivel.

I fish smaller shads on medium-heavy-action spinning rods matched with a 5000-size reel such as the Shimano Saragosa, loaded with 20-pound PowerPro and terminating in a 12-foot leader of clear 30-pound mono.

In very deep-water scenarios, I don’t think the lure color makes a whole lot of difference. Rather, it’s how the lure is fished that determines whether the fish eats. When fish are feeding closer to the surface, however, use a lure that closely replicates the baitfish they’re eating in both color and perhaps most importantly size.

Fishing big shads is very straightforward. Start by dropping the lure all the way to the bottom, then bounce it around for a minute or so while slowly retrieving 12 to 20 feet. Then drop it back down to regain bottom contact and repeat the process. If nothing hits, start a steady retrieve up through the entire water column. This makes the lure’s rubber tail vibrate enticingly.

I fish smaller shads by casting them down current, in the direction of the boat’s drift. This allows the lighter lure to sink fast while the drifting boat catches up. When fishing smaller lures, some species, such as coalfish (pollack), respond best to a faster retrieve.

When fishing northern seas, fish can hit your lure at any stage of the retrieve, right up to the surface. Big pollack frequently feed right on the surface, while on numerous occasions I have clearly seen 30-pound-plus cod inhale a lure just below the boat, and even on one or two occasions, halibut have done that.

Work the entire water column to try and identify at which depth most fish are feeding. Concentrating only on fishing at or very near the bottom is perhaps the single biggest reason why some anglers struggle to catch anything. Color-coded braided lines are a big bonus when fish are holding at a specific depth, as once you have established the key depth, you can drop straight back down to the most productive zone.

Bites range from a solid slam that stops the lure dead in its tracks to a delicate pluck, as the fish pulls away at the lure’s tail. In either case, never strike. Keeping winding at exactly the same rate of retrieve. Any change in the lure’s speed or action almost always results in the fish losing interest. Keep winding until everything goes tight, then set the hook by firmly lifting the rod.

When I fished metal jigs, it was important to maintain as near a vertical line as possible, but when fishing shad, that’s not a real necessity. The design of the lures ensures they swim perfectly almost regardless of the line angle. The fact that most shads are rigged with a single up-facing hook means the chances of a lure snagging bottom, even if trailing many yards behind the boat, are minimal.

Rubber shads are, of course, equally effective when used in warmer water. But they simply don’t last long because so many species with razor sharp teeth make short work of soft plastic or rubber.

The post Target Deep, Cold Water Fish with Soft-Plastic Shad Baits appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

All sorts of lures were on display at the 2017 ICAST international tackle trade show in Orlando. Lucky anglers walking the aisles and checking out the new offerings felt like they were exploring a toy store as a child. As you look through all the new lures highlighted below, imagine the possibilities of these baits on your favorite waters!

13 Fishing Superior Soft Baits

13 Fishing’s Superior Soft Baits mimic tiny bugs and crustaceans, perfect for anglers fishing dock lights with spinning gear. The ultralight plastics require a finesse presentation, but 13 Fishing’s Jose Chavez points out that the seven baits in 10 different colors are perfect for trout, snook or redfish near dock shadow lines. Sizes range from 23 to 43 millimeters. Price is $4.99 for a 6-pack.

Berkley Juke

The new Berkley Juke was designed by a team of world-class bait engineers and pro-anglers, including hard-bait legend David Fritts. Lure features include a flat profile and additional rattles to create maximum attraction. A coffin-shaped bill produces strong darting action and side flash with minimal rod movement. Price is $7.99, available in 18 different color options.

Berkley Powerbait Bearded Grass Pig

The Berkley Powerbait Bearded Grass Pig is a freshwater swimbait that mimics squid better than any largemouth bass prey item. This bait has saltwater written all over it. An integrated bearded body design increases natural movement when paired with a jig. Ten color options will be available in late 2017 for $4.99 (6-pack).

Halco Max 110

Halco’s newest member to the Max family is the 110, the smallest lip-less minnow in the series suitable for casting and trolling up to 12 knots. Its slender profile casts like a bullet, even in strong breezes. The Max 110 is constructed out of high-tech polymers, heavy-duty Halco Fish Rings and two XS Mustad hooks. Available in nine fish catching colors. The lure is 110 millimeters long; weight a 30 grams (1.05 ounces).

Halco Trembler 70X

The Trembler 70XS is the smallest member of the Halco Trembler family. Cast, jig or troll for outstanding results on a wide variety of tropical and temperate sportfish, reaching up to 6 knots and a swimming depth of 2.5 meters. The lure is offered in both clear bodied and traditional painted colors. Weight is 16 grams (.56 ounces); length is 70 millimeters. Heavy-duty Halco Fish Rings and No. 4 forged Mustad trebles are standard equipment.

LiveTarget BaitBall Spinner Rig

The BaitBall Spinner Rig incorporates teaser fish on three arms, a single spin blade for flash in the center, and a specially designed target fish armed with a single black nickel hook. Anglers can change both the teaser fish and target fish via a unique interchange system. The action of the BaitBall Spinner Rig mimics a small cluster of fleeing baitfish. Eight colors are available in different frames and weights. The bait hits stores in late 2017. Price is $13.49 – $15.49 based on model size.

LiveTarget Hollow Body Mullet

Cast the LiveTarget Hollow Body Mullet back into the deepest, darkest cover. Seasoned anglers can skip-cast to places where live baits are hard to utilize. The snag-resistant topwater lure features a walking action, custom single hook, and balanced weight. Built in three sizes — 3 3/4 inches (3/8 ounce), 4 1/2 inches (1/2 ounce)., and 5 3/8 inches (5/8 ounce) — in three color patterns. Price ranges from $13.49 to $14.49.

Rapala RipStop

The Rapala RipStop is a cross between a hard plastic jerkbait and a soft-body swimbait. Its unique tail design creates a fast-ripping flash and hard-stopping action. Built with a lip on the front and a tail at the back, the lure can stop on a dime when being retrieved. An integral part of the lure’s design is its plastic boot tail, which creates a hard-rolling, slashing action that mimics the live-minnow movements of a soft-plastic swimbait. Weight is 1/4 ounces; length is 3½ inches; and price is $9.99.

Rapala X-Rap Magnum 40

The new X-Rap Magnum 40, a bait that consistently dives to 40 feet, reaches a full 10 feet deeper than any other Rapala. The bait combines an extreme action with a controlled deep-diving, aggressive swimming motion. Length is 7 inches long; weight is 3 3/8 ounces; and trolling speed tops out at 13 knots. Features include rattle, translucent body and 3D holographic eyes, plus two 5/0 VMC 4X Perma Steel hooks. Price is $24.99.

Savage Gear 3D Back Lip Diver

Savage Gear’s 3D Back Lip Diver is a hard bodied, long casting bait with a lip attached to the belly that folds while in the air. The belly lip creates a seductive side to side belly roll in the water. Offered in two sizes, 4 and 5 inches, the bait has a slow sink action. Available in five colors, prices are $9.99- $11.99.

Savage Gear 3D Bat

The Savage Gear team created the first of its kind, a 3D-scanned topwater bat bait. Available in two sizes, 4 and 5 inches, the 3D Bat features a hard ABS body and stainless wings on the larger size, and aluminum wings on the smaller size. The 3D Bat also incorporates a high pitched built in rattle. Colors include Black Bat, Grey Bat and Brown Bat. Price is $19.99- $24.99.

Savage Gear Surf Walker

With a sleek stick style design, the Savage Surf Walker is a lipless topwater bait that creates a frantic walk-the-dog spitting action. With its long cast design, you can really get these baits out and away from the boat. Available in two sizes, 6 and 7 inches, the Surf Walker retails for $8.99- $9.99.

Sea Falcon Slow-Pitch Jigs

It was impossible not to notice these Sea Falcon jigs on display at the ICAST show. The finish on the metal jigs reflects a true Japanese feel. Sea Falcon offers many jig weights, ranging from 30 to 500 grams, in a variety of different styles. Most of the jig finishes are baitfish patterns in different colors. To buy the jigs, you’ll have to order directly from Japan.

Sebile Puncher

The Sebile Puncher is a suspending minnow bait that anglers can cast-and-retrieve, twitch, or jerk. Available in 5 sizes, the Sebile Puncher features a lure design that works with treble hooks or single hooks. A unique belly hook rotates 360 degrees to prevent fish from throwing the bait. Price is $6.99 – $9.99. Available in early September 2017.

Shimano Coltsniper Twitchbait and Walk

From top to bottom, the Shimano Coltsniper Twitchbait Floating, Twitchbait Sinking Hi-Pitch, Walk Floating Hi-Pitch, and Walk Floating Silent. Shimano’s new Coltsniper stickbaits are made from glass-fiber material and feature wire-through construction. Price is $9.99.

Storm 360GT Coastal

The new Storm 360GT Coastal lineup delivers fish-catching actions for any saltwater angler. Different lures in the coastal lineup all feature bodies inspired by common saltwater forage species, with belly slots and back slots for easy rigging of jigs or swimbait hooks. Lure styles include Manta Tail, Coastal Shrimp, Coastal Largo Shad and Trick Tail. One pack of four baits (with hook or jighead included) is $4.99.

Williamson Koika Jigs

Ideal for slow-pitching, Williamson’s Koika Jig employs an asymmetric design and center balance to create a slow fluttering fall that simulates distressed baitfish. Koika Jigs feature an embedded, lifelike holographic foil finish and a heavy-duty premium VMC Single Assist Hook with armored braid. Koika Jigs are available in eight colors and four sizes: 4 inches, 3-1/2 ounces; 4-1/2 inches, 5 ounces; 5 inches, 7 ounces; and 5-1/2 inches, 9 ounces. Price is $12.99 – $14.99.

Z-Man Slim SwimZ

Z-Man’s popular slim-bodied swimbait is now available in 3 inches, aptly named the 3-inch Slim SwimZ. Thin body and exclusive curved paddletail produce wriggling, undulating swimming action. This versatile minnow shape is ideal for a variety of saltwater applications, pairing best with new Trout Eye Finesse and TT Lures NedlockZ Jigheads. Available in 14 colors, a 6-pack retails for $4.49.

The post New Fishing Lures from ICAST 2017 appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

The pothole in the sea grass was the size of a city bus and too deep to walk across. But along its sandy edges and in its deepest quarters, snook were trapped like rats. We hopped out of the boat, trudged across a barren grass flat, and cast our twitchbaits into the oasis. Almost immediately, I hooked up to the first linesider of the day.

This particular flat was close to a nearby pass. Periods between falling and incoming tides were ­shortened because of that proximity. With the outgoing tide moving at full force, we knew the deep hole would be ­worthwhile to wade-fish.

But it surprised us to find snook, seatrout and redfish all trapped together in the deeper-water refuge. We had no idea what was going to strike next. Nearby, a fellow angler hooked a flounder, while someone else pulled tight on a pompano. Those catches made the total five different species. When the tide completely slowed, the bite finally shut down.

A falling or low tide doesn’t have to ruin a day’s fishing, but it might require a change in plans. Captains every day have to deal with low-water ­conditions, and they’ve mastered strategies to locate fish when winds, tides or currents push water out of their usual (or accustomed) spots.

Use Wind to Your Advantage

Low tides are inevitable and something anglers need to learn to contend with, says Capt. Jay Watkins, of Rockport, Texas. “Many anglers see lower tides as a detriment to their day on the water,” he says. “In reality, low tides can concentrate both baitfish and game fish. The less water we have to search, the less area for fish to hide in.”

A lack of water can displace game fish from their preferred feeding grounds, so a solution calls for finding secondary areas that allow the predators ambush and feeding opportunities. Fish adjacent areas of deeper water with similar bottom structure because fish seldom venture too far from structure or ­predictable food sources.

When you find your favorite flat void of water, seek out the “guts” that drain the flat. Guts, in Texas lingo, are smaller underwater highways, formed by moving water, which make excellent areas to target during low-water situations. Drop-offs along channels can be effective too, given ample bottom structure along the elevation change to create ambush points.

“In Texas, especially the middle to lower coast where I fish, we usually have wind of some kind to help us,” says Watkins. “On days with slack tides, wind provides our water movement. I prefer the smaller guts that cut into the flats off main-channel drop-offs.”

Fishermen can utilize a sustained wind to act as a current, which can result in a wide-open bite.

Set up your drift pattern or anchor so you’re fishing with the wind direction, not against it. Watkins targets windward drop-offs during low tides. The wind stacks bait along the drop-off, making for excellent conditions for both fishermen and predators. Soft Plastics and suspending baits are go-to lures under these conditions.

“Winds cause mud and sand to mix in the water, helping to disguise our lures,” says Watkins. “I believe the results are more-instinctive strikes, due to fish not actually seeing the lure clearly but reacting to its movement.”

Virginia fishing captain Chris Newsome, who fishes Chesapeake Bay regularly, has his own methods for ­handling wind and shallow water.

“Low water proves a problem for me, since it limits the number of locations where fish will hold,” says Newsome. “I like to form a game plan prior to leaving the dock based on the day’s conditions. Most of my decisions on where and when to fish are dictated by tidal height and current flow.”

Smaller tides on the Chesapeake actually allow wind to play a vital role in tidal height.

“The bay’s western shore sees extreme lows during strong southwest winds,” says Newsome. “Realizing that wind influences not only tidal height but also current flow is a key to success.”

In general, water is always ­moving somewhere, and that’s especially evident on the Chesapeake. The key is to learn where to look for moving water at any given moment based on tide and wind. For example, the lee side of a shoreline might be a weak option, while the exposed side offers a higher probability of wind-generated water movement and higher water levels.

“Moving a small distance offshore or around a river bend can result in varied current flow, which will influence your success, particularly during low tide,” says Newsome.

When locating fish in deeper water, Newsome live-chums an area with ­peanut bunker.

“It’s an easy way to keep an eye out for game fish exploding on an easy meal,” he says. “Lone juvenile menhaden scurrying across the water’s surface is a surefire way to bring game fish up from the deeps This can be particularly valuable during low tide when fish are holding in deeper water.”

Added bonus, this technique allows for fishing topwater lures during times when you would otherwise have to bounce the bottom with jigs.

Try to Find Deeper Water to Fish

Finding deeper water with both structure and current produces fish effectively during low tides. Capt. Kevin Mihailoff, who fishes out of Everglades City, Florida, explores the seemingly endless flats, creeks, channels and structured shorelines of the labyrinthine Everglades most days.

Instead of relying on wind-driven water movement to deal with lower-tide situations, he utilizes bottom structure as fish attractors. “When the tide gets really low, the fish will look for structure in deeper water; the bottom contour can be a very important consideration, deciding where they will hold,” says Mihailoff.

In the Everglades, common structure might be downed tree limbs, uneven bottom contours, mud, sea grass or oyster bars. Also, the eddies near river bends can be holding places for snook, redfish, tarpon or goliath grouper. Game fish tend to pull away from shore banks on low tides, so don’t crowd the edges with your vessel — many anglers make the simple mistake of getting too close to the shore and running over the fish.

Mihailoff also says other areas too deep to fish during normal flood tides can turn red-hot when the tide drops. The deeper flats and their edges that you run full plane across on high tide could actually hold fish when the tide falls. In fact, those areas can ­concentrate fish, if you’re able to find them.

“The only problem is that sometimes the fish just lie on bottom and don’t feed much on the slack low tide,” points out Mihailoff. “Even though you’ve located the fish, sometimes you have to wait until the tide turns for them to perk up.”

One last option is to explore ­during low tide and accept that you’ll have to fish skinny water to find fish. Of course, this works best from a shallow-draft skiff, kayak or paddleboard.

“Snook and redfish start to move to extremely shallow water in March and April,” says Mihailoff, “offering fly-rodders and other sight-fishermen great targets with the warming ­temperatures.”

Have You Mastered the Different Tide Phases?

Exploiting local tides and currents is essential to strategize the day’s fishing, which could be a key difference between catching or going for a boat ride. Use tides, currents and water movement to your advantage.

The post Low-Tide Fishing appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Someday soon I’m convinced surface-iron fishing will spread like wildfire across all oceans to ­sight-­fishermen everywhere. Any offshore angler who regularly sight-fishes with lures should have a ­surface-iron setup handy. Mackerels, jacks, tunas, mahi, trevallies and even striped bass are just some of the species anglers can target using this diamond-shaped lure workhorse.

Until the surface-iron technique spreads cross-country, Southern California anglers will continue to catch the heck out of regional species like yellowtail, barracuda, calico bass, dorado, tunas and wahoo. Steal effective techniques from top pros who faithfully fish the iron, and translate their success to your favorite waters and species.

How to Pick an Iron Jig

Snatching a random jig from a tackle shop’s pegboard is not a productive way to pick surface iron. In fact, finding that magic jig might be the hardest part of surface-iron fishing.

“It’s almost like a lipped crankbait,” says Capt. Ben Florentino, of Coastal Charters in Long Beach, California. “One does not swim as well as another because they’re not all shaped exactly the same.”

Casting and retrieving iron is the only true test to see how they swim, but anglers can look for specific favorable characteristics in the tackle shop. Surface irons are produced via sand casting or die casting, meaning the iron is crafted from a mold. Lightweight aluminum is one popular metal for surface iron, while deep-sinking yo-yo jigs are often made from zinc or brass.

“I prefer a surface iron that has slight offset shoulders,” says Daryl Wasano, owner of Sumo Tackle, referencing the middle sides of the jig body that help the jig swim. Some iron has a slight concave bottom, which can help with action. Southern California fishermen give parts of iron jigs nicknames like hips, nose and eyes.

“I pick out the lure with distinct, offset hips,” says Florentino, confirming that some irregularities in the symmetry of an iron is a good thing. “You want that jig to wiggle, wiggle, then kick when retrieved. Just real steady, and the lure should kick out on its own. That kick is when fish are most likely to strike.”

The eyes where the solid rings pass through iron can also be offset. “Anglers can modify the jigs if they’re not swimming optimally,” says Florentino. “If the eyes are aligned, anglers can drill the holes bigger and slightly to the side to create offset eyes. Offset eyes can help [create] better action.”

Popular surface swimmer jigs include the Tady 45, Salas 7X and Sumo 7X, although different lengths, weights and colors are available for when game fish are keyed on specific baits.

“The most popular size is 6¼ inches in length and about 3.6 ounces in weight,” says Wasano. “There are other sizes available, but this is the preferred size of most surface iron based on ­market sales.”

Colors of lures might factor in when fishing low-light or bright-light ­conditions, but mostly fishermen want an iron that imparts attractive swimming action. “When the fish are biting, I don’t think color matters,” says Wasano. “They’ll bite at anything that has an erratic motion to it.”

For hardware, a solid ring is ­standard at both the nose and butt. Most companies add a Mustad 4/0 or VMC 4/0 treble hook to the rear ring. “Split rings have come a long way in strength, but that brazed ring is something most anglers still prefer,” says Wasano. “Sumo Tackle is using a new laser welding technique to connect the two ends of the ring together.”

Techniques and Situational Fishing

“I go to the surface iron anytime I see signals of game-fish feeding activity at or near the surface,” says Capt. Duane “Diego” Mellor, of Pinnacle Sportfishing in San Diego. “This includes when eyeballing fish, baitfish or bird activity. Fishing the plug (jig) allows you to cover a lot more water, accurately place your offering in front of fish feeding at a distance, and it eliminates time spent at the bait tank.”

The actual technique requires a simple cast and wind — it doesn’t matter whether the depth is 5 or 1,000 feet. Surface irons are effective for “breezing” surface fish, those feeding just below the surface, and even raising fish from moderate depths.

Still, yo-yo irons are the best option for straight up-and-down fishing, points out Dan Hernandez, a fishing TV host and youth-fishing advocate based out of Cerritos, California. “We usually fish for yellowtail and rockfish with the yo-yo,” says Hernandez. “I will use a surface iron [for fish on top] when the live bait is small or simply not working.”

Springtime is productive for yellowtail at the surface off Southern California. It’s often run-and-gun ­fishing near birds over schools.

“You can see the fish breezing at the surface, so lead the school with your cast,” says Capt. Buzz Brizendine, captain and owner of Prowler Sportfishing in San Diego. “Get the boat just close enough so you can reach them with a long cast. These conditions are often in off-colored water, plus fairly deep, so the yellowtail are not as spooky.”

Have a yo-yo setup ready to go when the surface action subsides. “First you have to spot them on the meter, then drop to the depth they’re marking,” says Brizendine. “This works for yellowtail and tuna, especially when they’re marking solid [on the screen].”

In late spring and early summer, Brizendine heads to the kelp with lighter tackle for calico bass.

Warmer waters mean better surface action, especially the summer months from May to October. Expect yellowfin and bluefin at the surface in the summer from 2 to 40 miles offshore, but completely dependent on warm water in the low 70s or high 60s, a steady bait source, and clean water. Shimano Butterfly Flat-Fall jigs were popular for bluefin last year, Brizendine says.

“Late summer, head to the floating kelp paddies,” continues Brizendine. “Dorado love the surface iron. Throw the jig past the paddy, and they’ll come out and blast the jig. Sometimes a tuna will steal a jig meant for a dorado.”

For tackle, use an 8- to 10-foot rod for surface iron. Even rods of such length if too heavy might not cast a light lure well; similarly, shorter rods offer better leverage but not peak casting distance.

For reels, Brizendine uses a Penn Fathom 25 with 65-pound braid and 3 feet of 40-pound fluorocarbon leader. Florentino prefers a 9-foot jig stick with a Shimano Tranx (a levelwind star drag that’s capable of 42 inches per crank) with 80-pound braid and 50-pound leader.

“I firmly believe that any game fish feeding aggressively on baitfish is susceptible to surface iron. Whether striped bass on the East Coast or foaming tuna in the Gulf, if you present a good swimming jig to feeding fish, you have a strong chance at getting bit,” says Mellor.

Make the surface-iron revolution a reality.

Words of Advice

“Successful anglers are committed to surface irons. You can’t just make five casts and give up. My personal best calico bass was a 10-pounder in 5 feet of water off San Clemente. When feeding, fish really eat the jig, but I’ve noticed anglers who stay committed to the surface iron often land bigger fish.” —Capt. Ben Florentino

“When you get bit on a surface jig, never swing on the fish. Rather, pull the rod into your body and keep winding fast. Swinging a long rod will cause slack line and lost fish.” —Dan Hernandez

“Spinning reels that have powerful drags and extensive line capacities are making a big push in Southern California. They’re easier for newer fishermen to cast. I believe they’ll be a great option to cast iron when the albacore tuna come through next year.” —Capt. Buzz Brizendine

“Among the struggles that anglers run into when casting surface iron are distance, accuracy and the ever-dreaded backlash. A good way to tune up your casting skills is to grab your jig stick and a 3-ounce torpedo sinker, and head to your local open-space park to practice.” —Capt. Diego Mellor

What You Need to Know About Boat Noise and Fish Behavior

How close can you get to feeding fish? Learn about the effects of noise on fish.

The post Surface Iron Fishing appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

How often is the word ­“guaranteed” included in a fishing invite? And how often is that fishing invitation an opportunity to target 75-plus-pound sharks that violently attack popping plugs and flies? Those who are skeptical of such claims have never fished for south Atlantic’s sportiest sharks.

Spinners and blacktips — two of the most acrobatic sharks in the Atlantic — invade South Florida Atlantic beaches by the score each fall and winter. Most sharks don’t jump when hooked, but these two similar species leap clear out of water like makos. Yet, surprisingly, I often have to entice new anglers to try this style of shark fishing.

That First Hookup

It was, by Florida’s wimpy ­standards, a cold winter morning in Riviera Beach. Reliable 15-knot southeast winds straightened out the flags at the Newport Cove Marina as we boarded Capt. Tore Turney’s 31-foot Contender Reel Lucky. Ten minutes later we were outside Palm Beach Inlet, cruising north along the beaches of Singer Island.

Turney stood at the bow of the boat. He leaned back against a dock line fixed to the bow cleat as he directed his mate, Capt. Ken Schlecther, which way to steer the boat. Within a few minutes, Turney pointed out signs of sharks, including fish scooting away from our boat and distant free-jumpers. We anchored 200 yards from the shore break in 15 feet of clear, green water.

My three friends joining me as anglers only had prior experience shark fishing with bait. Today would be different. Today we were going to use lures too. But only one of them had any experience casting plugs, so we started with natural bait.

Turney started chumming with a block of ground bunker (menhaden) and a whole little tunny (aka bonito or false albacore), tail-roped to a stern cleat, then sliced a few times to release scent into the chum slick. Fishing outfits included medium-­spinning and light-conventional rigs, loaded with 20- and 30-pound-test braid. A circle hook, connected to a few feet of single-strand wire, was attached to a heavy braided leader for abrasion resistance. Each angler cast out a slab of false albacore in different directions from the boat.

Less than a minute passed before the first rod doubled over and the reel started to scream. John Kauffman, from Longwood, Florida, grabbed the rod from a bow holder and hung on as a shark soared free of the water. Then the hooked fish began a sustained run straight toward the beach, with Kauffman running toward the stern in hot pursuit.

As he passed by Phil Cohen, from Boynton Beach, Florida, Cohen’s rod doubled over with a repeat performance from another bronze-colored shark. His shark dragged him in the opposite direction. Amid the excitement of both anglers, Mike Richmond, an angler from Miami Beach, yelled out, “I’ve got one too!” The chaotic triple hookup happened in a matter of seconds — a common situation with winter sharks along the Palm Beach coast.

The Kite Approach

With each of my friends busy fighting his fish without crossing each other’s lines, I helped Turney set up his kite rig for luring sharks to the surface. The setup is simple, with three release clips and a conventional outfit to control the hookless slab dangling in the water. False albacore, barracuda or jack crevalle are perfect baits. (A teaser bait connected to a regular setup is another option, but it’s not nearly as far-reaching or effective as the kite approach.)

When sharks are hanging back in the slick or near the surf line, a kite and sturdy hand on the kite reel can lure fish toward the boat by walking the teaser bait along the surface. Be ready to repeatedly jerk it away from an interested shark or even lift it into the air when suspended from a kite. The kite itself allows the bait to fall back to the surface with a splash, exciting and frustrating the pursuer.

Sometimes a shark does catch a teaser bait and steals it. When this happens, another slab is sent aloft attached to the next kite clip, and the kite is allowed to fly farther from the boat. This allows for three lost teaser baits before bringing the kite back to the first clip again.

After about 20 minutes, Kauffman’s shark circled the boat and passed under our taut anchor line. Turney ran to the bow and helped Kauffman pass his rod under the rope, following the shark. This happened about six times with each angler’s fish before finally getting the sharks to the boat for successful releases.

Turney normally puts new strip baits in the water after each released fish, but we decided against it. With everyone warmed up, the time was right to pull out the topwater lures.

Blacktip Versus Spinners

During the heat of the battle, and even at boatside, it takes a keen eye to distinguish between blacktip and spinner sharks. The most easily recognized difference between the two species is that the tip of the anal fin on a spinner shark is black. Strangely enough, on the blacktip, the anal-fin tip is the same (gray) color as the fin.

When these species are hooked and jump into the air, sometimes they’ll spin like a well-thrown football. Your first thought might be that you’ve hooked a spinner shark, but don’t be fooled — scientists point out that both species can execute the same aerials. Both species prefer water temperatures near 73 degrees Fahrenheit, which helps explain why they head to South Florida in winter to reproduce. Mixed in with other shark species, the blacktip and spinner aggregations along South Florida help make up the largest annual shark migration in U.S. waters.

Lure Preparation

I had brought along three favorite spinning outfits: 7-foot, 12- to 20-pound Star rods with Shimano Stradic 8000 reels loaded with 20-pound braid. A 10-foot abrasion leader of 200-pound-test braided line separates the 20-pound main line from the 2-foot wire leader. I use the heavy braid because it is softer, thinner and more flexible than fluorocarbon or mono, allowing for longer and easier casts. Still, the necessary knot connections limit casting distance of even the most aerodynamic lure. A high cast toward the suspended teaser takes advantage of the same wind holding up the kite.

I’ve used hookless poppers in the past to play with excited sharks and tease them in for fly-fishermen, but typically, popping plugs are armed and dangerous. Releasing sharks landed on bait requires cutting the single-strand wire leader close to the fish’s mouth. Releasing a shark that attacked a lure with trebles is much harder to accomplish. The thought of a shark swimming away with a multihook lure in its face bothers me, so I came up with a lure modification that easily and safely releases them. The trebles are removed and only a single tail hook is used. Wire leader is run through the split rings in a way that allows for safe and easy removal of the plug.

Bright orange and yellow are the best colors for flies, so I use comparable colors with plugs. A Gibbs’ Pencil Popper spray-painted bright orange and sprinkled with gold sparkle is one of my favorite presentations. I also cast bright-yellow red-head Bass Pro Lazer Eye Pencil Poppers.

The plan was to introduce my friends to the thrill of hooking these fish at the surface. I started with Kauffman, who has experience casting to redfish, trout and snook. I had him cast one of my modified poppers as close as possible to the suspended kite bait and showed him how to make that lure dance, with the rod butt between my legs, holding the rod blank just above the foregrip. Then I began a rhythmic ­back-and-forward retrieve while slowly cranking the reel.

The pencil popper stood tall on its tail with most of its body out of the water. Each rod gyration made the plug’s head swing back and forth and slam into the water’s surface. The lure hardly moved away from the teaser while still creating a white froth and staying in the strike zone. After a couple of tries, Kauffman got the hang of it. He was concentrating so hard on the technique that a sharky surface explosion surprised him.

A robust hook-set is required if a shark has the plug firmly in its teeth. Often the result is the shark spitting the plug before the hook sets. That happened the first time for Kauffman, but soon after, he hooked up. The shark ripped line from the reel and greyhounded across the surface as everyone cheered. Then, the shark turned sharply toward the bow.

While Kauffman fought his fish, Turney had to keep full attention on the teaser bait; several times a shark would sneak up and grab the bait without first showing itself at the surface.

Kauffman finally had his fish circling the boat and causing the usual excitement at the anchor line. With the heavy braid back on the reel, it was easy for Turney to grab the plug with one hand. The plug and attached feathers slid up the metal leader, stopping at a barrel swivel 3 feet away from the shark’s teeth. With no hooks swinging around and little need to take a leader wrap, Turney grabbed the plug to control the fish. With the plug as a handle, anglers can reach down to remove the hook or cut the wire close to the fish’s mouth. If the hook point sticks out through the fish’s skin, a leader man can grab the hook bend with a pair of pliers. Cut the wire at the hook eye, and the needle-eye hook slides out through the puncture outside the mouth.

High fives were given to an exhausted Kauffman after the release. Richmond and Cohen continued casting and popping but just couldn’t get a shark to grab the popper. We finally helped them by rigging and casting out a couple of bait teasers. They retrieved their plugs alongside the bait teasers and both hooked up immediately.

After a couple of sharks each, my friends begged off fishing, so I pulled out my 12-weight fly rod. I use 8 feet of 60-pound nylon-coated leader called Berkley Sevalon; an 18-inch, 20-pound-test tippet; and a short Sevalon shock tippet tied to a bright-orange gold-flecked popper fly. I hooked up almost immediately, and after a 45-minute fight, had some help from Turney releasing my shark.

Everyone agreed that popper fishing for the sharks was a blast. After the day was over, I added three more believers to my list of shark sight-fishing converts.

How to Rig A Shark Plug

Remove the treble hooks and add heavy-duty split rings [A] to the head, midsection and rear of the popper. A needle-eye 9/0 Mustad Sea Demon hook [B] attaches to single-strand No. 9 wire [C] by first passing the wire through the eye, around the back of the hook shank, and back through the eye again before making the haywire twist. This is important to keep the hook from swinging, plus it creates a loop used later to hold other key parts to the lure.

The wire is trimmed to 3½ feet in length, and large spacer beads [D] are threaded onto the wire. The spacers keep the hook 2 inches from the plug when the wire is fed through the three split rings (starting at the back of the plug, of course). Pull the wire all the way through and attach a swivel so the plug is ready to be knotted to the braided leader.

Then dress a piece of No. 12 wire to add even more flash to the plug. Sharks are often released with the hook still in their mouth, so try not to leave feathers hanging from their lip. Double the piece of wire over with a loop on each end so it totals 4 inches in length, and put the wire in a fly-tying vice.

First, add hollow gold Mylar piping [E] to the wire, with the cord removed and the strands spread out. Next, tie on a bunch of bright orange bucktail and feathers [F] splayed outward. To attach the dressed wire to the lure, the front loop of the wire is threaded onto the split ring at the tail of the lure. A wire-tie [G] attaches the rear loop of the 4-inch wire to the leader above the hook. When the plug slides up the leader wire during the release, that fluffy attractor pulls away from the hook and stays with the popper.

About the Author: Capt. Zac Grossman used to run the charter boat Mako Express — named for his favorite target — out of Montauk, New York. Retired in South Florida these days, he’s a regular charter customer, booking as many trips as possible with friends and writing about the experience.

The post Nearshore Topwater Shark Fishing appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.