Forward facing sonar (FFS), or what I like to call live sonar, stands as one of the most revolutionary new technologies in angling. Offered by brands such as Garmin, Humminbird and Lowrance, FFS paints real-time, ultrasound-like screen images of structure and fish as far as 500 feet from the boat. Popularized largely by freshwater tournament bass anglers, FFS opens new opportunities to target big fish and determine how they are behaving before wetting a line.

Forward facing sonar is definitely changing the nature of angling. I will let you be the judge if that’s a good change or not. But no matter how you feel, the genie is already out of the bottle. That being the case, Berkley is matching this dramatic technology trend with three lines of remarkable lures designed specifically for fishing with FFS.

Quicklook: Best Berkley Forward Facing Sonar Lures

• Krej: Uniquely engineered jerk bait with an upside-down bill and backward darting action
• Finisher: A hovering hard bait designed to maximize hang time within the FFS sonar beam
• Power Switch: Soft-plastic bait with an internal leadhead that offers a tantalizing action when twitched, and reflects sonar signals exceedingly well

Breaking Down Berkley’s Lures for Forward Facing Sonar

“Berkley is the leader in science-based bait development, and we take pride in providing anglers with the best solution to help them catch fish in any environment,” says Jon Schlosser, Berkley’s chief brand and product officer. “We’ve known that forward-facing sonar was coming and have spent the past few years learning about the trend in anticipation of it catching on.

“Berkley Labs has been able to create some truly special baits that are proven to catch more fish with FFS,” Schlosser adds. “It’s exciting to see how revolutionary these baits are, not only in their design, but in how they enable anglers to manipulate their baits in ways that have never been done before.”

Krej

This odd name is actually “jerk” spelled backward, which is fitting since the Krej sports an upside-down bill and works its way upward and backslides toward fish chasing this hard bait. This not only entices fish to bite, but also keeps the lure in the live-sonar beam strike zone for extended periods of time, providing anglers with more chances to see how fish are responding and tease them into biting.

“The Krej is a bait that performs like no other hard bait, especially when paired with forward-facing sonar,” says Dan Spengler, senior project engineer of bait and terminal tackle for Berkley. “Over two years to develop, the bait’s upturned bill gives anglers several ways to manipulate it, providing a solution to the current gaps when using forward-facing sonar.” The 100 mm bait sinks at a foot per second and is available in 10 color patterns. $14.99 – Shop now

Finisher

The Finisher hard bait optimizes time in the FFS sonar beam by “hovering” and moving laterally in the water column with minimal retrieve progression. This lets the angler effectively maneuver the bait based on how the fish is reacting to it, as observed on the live-sonar display. The fin-less glide bait’s weight-forward design also allows for precision casts, fast drop-ins, and a wide range of actions, according to Berkley. The perpendicular line-tie maintains knot position at all times.

“What makes this bait unique is that it has no fin structure, which can allow it to do a multitude of actions,” Spengler says. Its flat bottom lets it hover or hang in the water column, enabling anglers to control how the lure is interacting with fish spotted on FFS, he explains. The Finisher comes with two Fusion19 treble hooks, and is available in 500, 700 and 900 mm sizes and 20 color patterns. $8.99 to $10.99 – Shop now

PowerBait Power Switch

The Berkley PowerBait Power Switch gives anglers the control to quickly switch techniques (hence the name) in response to how the fish are behaving as observed on FFS.

When a fish is located on FFS, the window to catch the fish can close fast. Power Switch lets anglers present their bait as quickly and precisely as possible with an internal leadhead that creates strong sonar returns. The weight-forward design of this soft-plastic bait allows for precision casts, fast fall rates and a wide range of actions. Packed with PowerBait flavor and pre-rigged with a Fusion19 hook, Power Switch appeals to a wide range of species, according to Berkley. 

“This bait can sink fast, hover at the angler’s desired water column, with each action working together in one profile,” says Kyle Peterson, project engineer for Berkley. “It gives anglers everything they need to best interact with fish, especially when paired with forward-facing sonar.” The Power Switch features a natural baitfish profile and 3D eyes, and comes in 1.75-, 2.5, 3-, 4.25 and 5-inch versions. It is available in standard, HD Tru Color and holographic “wizard” colors—14 color patterns in all. $9.99 – View all the options

FAQ

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Perfecting Your Plugs

During a hot seatrout bite years ago along an Indian River Lagoon shoreline, I realized I had to start modifying my hard baits. The trout were biting on every cast, favoring dark-green lipless twitchbaits, and many of the specks were swallowing the plugs deep.

Gut-hooking a trout destined for the fish box isn’t a problem, but I was fun fishing, and tired of performing time-wasting surgery with needle-nose pliers to safely remove treble hooks. That day I committed to finding alternatives to factory trebles.

I don’t fault lure companies for selling lures with two or three trebles — it’s their job to make sure lures hook fish. But do you use your smartphone, computer or even your truck as it was when shipped from the factory?

Or do you modify the products to your needs after purchasing them? Experts adjust their hard baits for an easier, more productive time on the water. Consider some of their useful mods for inshore and offshore situations.

Single-Hook Club

One efficient and eco-friendly option calls for replacing trebles with in-line single hooks, manufactured by companies such as VMC, Owner and Mustad. A large single hook is much more ­difficult than a treble for a fish to throw.

“The larger wire diameter of the ­single hook is much stronger than a typical treble hook’s wire,” says Capt. Jim Ross, a VMC pro staffer from Rockledge, Florida, “giving the angler an advantage in strength and allowing him to use more drag pressure without straightening hooks.”

Yet the impetus for one major hook company to produce in-line single hooks was pesky, thick weeds, not necessarily increased strength. “Anglers down in the lower Laguna Madre fish the heavy grass in the summers,” says Viet Nguyen, customer relations manager with Owner America. “Fishing trebles was impossible, so they would throw weedless topwater frogs or replace hard-bait trebles with ringed live-bait hooks.”

Owner started manufacturing in-line hooks so anglers didn’t have to add an extra ring to position the hook point upright, like a keel. VMC Hooks also produces an in-line for plugs, called the VMC ILS (in-line single hook). In 2015, Mustad added its own UltraPoint in-line single hook. Owner offers its in-line hooks in sizes 6 to 9/0, VMC in 1/0 to 7/0, and Mustad in 1/0 to 8/0.

“With the newer style of in-line singles, lures actually have better action than with a treble hook,” says Ross. “I believe this is the result of single hooks having less surface area and drag in the water than comparable trebles.”

Forcing the eye in line with the rest of the hook makes it much easier to hook fish, explains Nguyen. “Anglers no longer need to use a ringed hook. Instead, replace a treble with an in-line hook using your split-ring pliers. I use the in-line hooks when fish are striking hard baits energetically. The hooks are great for catch-and-release too.”

Besides offering easier releases and better functionality in grass, in-line singles also offer a safety factor. “I’ve definitely ­noticed anglers catching more big tuna, or other species that go wild in the boat, like cobia, using the in-line hooks,” says Nguyen. “They don’t want all those barbs flying around in the cockpit.”

By offering in-line hooks that are factory-rigged to specific plugs, some hard-bait manufacturers eliminate any need to swap out hooks. Williamson’s Popper and Surface Pro lures, Shimano’s Pop Orca 150, and Yo-Zuri’s Sashimi Bonita all utilize single hooks.

Heavy Modification

When considering plug modifications, particularly for big game, anglers must ask themselves a few questions: What are the target species and how do they feed? Will anglers keep or release the target species? How big are they? The answers can help determine how to modify your hard baits.

“With the advent of super lines, and advancements in the strength, durability and performance of jig-and-pop-style rods and reels, anglers are asking even more from their artificial baits,” explains Rhode Island-based Capt. Jack Sprengel, who regularly ­targets big fish on poppers.

He prefers lures with heavy-duty through-wire construction.

“Tunas, trevally, jacks and even large snapper are well-known for their ­ability to destroy even the most well-made lures, with little more than their bite strength and dental attributes,” says Sprengel. “I can’t tell you how many high-end plugs I’ve had come back to the boat with straightened paper clips.”

To beef up his plugs, Sprengel first adds durable Owner Hyper Wire or Spro Power split rings in the appropriate size. “Typically, the best size is 7 to 11, depending on the plug and hooks being attached,” he says. “To these, we attach massive [vacuum-tinned finish] trebles like Owner’s Stinger ST-66s or ST-76s. This combo of hook and ring is standard for my crew while targeting most big-game species, like the smaller tunas under 100 pounds that we intend to keep.”

For species that he’ll release, such as giant trevally or large cubera snapper, Sprengel recommends super-sharp, barbless Gamakatsu 24 GT Recorder treble hooks.

Pinch the Barb

“I mash down the barbs on all my hooks, whether I’m casting jigs, plugs, spoons or flies,” says Capt. Bob LeMay, a South Florida-based captain who specializes in shark and tarpon fishing. “I’ll only keep the barbs on my offset circle hooks intact when targeting tarpon with cut or live bait, mostly to keep the bait on the hook.” LeMay has been to the hospital on two different occasions for hook-­related puncture incidents, so now he debarbs his hooks for self-­preservation, he says.

The skipper specializes in ­fishing Everglades waters during the day, casting red-and-white plugs such as the Bagley Mullet and Bomber Long A to tarpon in 10 to 15 feet of water. “Pinching the barbs down on the hooks is the equivalent to ‘greasing up’ a hook,” he says. “I’m certain it’s easier to get a hook set into a tarpon.”

LeMay removes the first treble hook on his Long A (favoring the ⅞-ounce model), and replaces the rear treble with a No. 1 Owner 4X Stinger treble. “Replacing the rear treble turns a plug that only stays hooked momentarily into a bait that really sticks for the ­entire fight.”

Kevlar Assist

In some cases, either for added strength or short-striking fish, Kevlar-rigged assist hooks can be attached to hard baits via a solid ring attached to a split ring.

“I take a page right out of the vertical-jigging book,” says Capt. Jack Sprengel. “Attach your hookless lure to a split ring. To that, attach a 300- to 500-pound solid ring with a Kevlar cord and assist hook.”

The hook trails back along the lure naturally while it’s worked. Or it can be secured in place with a breakaway system via small zip ties, rubber bands or light rigging floss.

“When the fish takes the presentation, it’s attached to a large assist hook and heavy solid ring for the fight,” Sprengel explains. “The plug dangles carefree, out of the way, avoiding any stress or failure of the lure.”

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Wake-Up Call

Mullet, herring, menhaden and sardines swimming erratically just below the surface, throwing a telltale V-wake, don’t swim that way because they’re comfortable. Chances are those baits are speeding away from a perceived threat.

“Distress is typically the ‘running motor’ behind a waking baitfish,” says Patrick Sebile, founder and lure designer for Sebile Innovative Fishing. “Predators are sensitive to any signs showing a weakness.”

The swimming movements of a suffering baitfish, especially when separated from a school, demonstrate why a wake bait’s action is so effective. Wake baits (at least those covered in this fishing article) are lures that have a drastically sloped lip or other design feature that causes them to swim methodically near the water’s surface. Some wake baits work on top of the water, others just below the surface, and a couple can even do both. Each different style of bait tends to leave a tempting wake in its trail — hence the name.

Wake baits are not a newfangled innovation for ­anglers, but modern and unique designs from top lure manufacturers have reinvigorated enthusiasm for their versatility and effectiveness. A baitfish fleeing in the upper water column creates turbulence that is often felt but not necessarily seen by predators — wake baits ­provide both commotion and a strong visual.

“Cast a wake bait along a wall where snook wait for prey, above a reef where snappers and jacks look for food, or in front of a manta ray to entice a cobia,” says Sebile. “Nothing is more difficult for a fish than to grab a bait among millions; it’s much easier to attack one alone.”

Check out these wake baits that stand out from the rest.

Egret Kick A Mullet Jr.

The Inside Scoop: Egret’s Kick A Mullet Jr. is a jointed, waking hard bait that features a wedged tail, similar to Egret’s soft-plastic line of baits. “You can feel the vibration of the lure in the rod as you reel the bait on top,” says Louisiana pro staffer Ray Christy. “Make sure to keep your rod tip up if you want the bait on top.” Christy uses the Egret Kick A Mullet Jr. in the winter and spring around southwest Louisiana for trophy speckled trout in the Sabine and Calcasieu lakes. “The Kick A Mullet is a fishable bait right out of the package. I don’t switch out the hooks,” he says. “I can use it as a wake bait or suspending bait; the tail has action even as the bait falls.”

Gibbs Pro Series Danny

The Inside Scoop: Gibbs’ ProSeries Danny Surface Swimmer is built from pine, offering lifelike action few lures can replicate. It also features a stainless-steel lip and is rigged with VMC hooks. “The bait is truly enticing because of the tail action,” says Matt Smalley, sales and operations manager at Gibbs Lures. “That lip gives it so much east-and-west action. The Danny simulates a baitfish at the surface, able to call fish from depths of 25 feet.” The Danny is simple to cast and reel, and anglers can easily feel the wiggle. “Guides love ’em for their customers,” he says. “Still, pros will outfit these plugs to whatever specs they want.” One wild card: Danny Surface Swimmers work for the night bite.

Jackall Mikey Jr.

The Inside Scoop: The Jackall Mikey Jr. is a three-piece jointed bait with a drastically angled bill that creates a killer wake at the surface when fished slowly. “The snakelike slithering in the water, combined with a light rolling action, gives fish something they normally don’t see,” says Dan Thorburn, Jackall’s lure product manager. “Realistic paint finishes help fool fish into thinking the prey is injured and fleeing.” The Mikey Jr. can be fished at different speeds without the lure coming out of tune; this allows the angler to “burn” it back, or just creep it. “I won’t say one lure is better than another,” says Thorburn. “I firmly believe that any lure can work at any time, but when fish are committed to surface- and subsurface-type lures in clear waters, I’d use this bait.”

LiveTarget Wakebait Surface Mullet

The Inside Scoop: The LiveTarget Surface Mullet is a broken-body wake bait that’s ­electroplated to withstand corrosion. “The ‘trigger’ quality of the wake bait is that it looks like a baitfish breaking away from the school or specific structure,” says Gary Abernethy, spokesman for LiveTarget. With jerkbaits, the action is erratic, but Abernethy points out that wake baits have a rhythmic retrieve and cadence. “The rod angle helps create the rhythmic action,” he says. “When the lure’s a farther distance from the boat, keep the rod tip higher; closer to the boat, drop the rod tip.” Swimming in the top 6 inches, the Surface Mullet excels in cold-water conditions when fish won’t hit a topwater, or in extra-clear water when a topwater is too aggressive.

Mann’s Tidewater Mid 1-Minus

The Inside Scoop: Mann’s Tidewater Mid 1-Minus is a buoyant lure with a big body, angled lip and saltwater hooks, ideal for redfish, seatrout and snook. “The motion of the Mid 1-Minus creates an X shape, almost like a crab scuttling across the surface,” says Mike McPherson, director of operations at Mann’s. The more perpendicular the lip, the larger the wobble, he says. “Our baits have at least a 75-degree lip. It’s not so much about depth, but about the wobble.” The best conditions to cast the Mid 1-Minus are in the extreme shallows during a day with overcast skies or when fish are feeding toward the surface. “The vibration of the 1-Minus, nicknamed ‘The Egg,’ is natural in its motion — just what game fish are looking for,” says McPherson.

Rapala BX Waking Minnow

The Inside Scoop: The Rapala BX Waking Minnow imitates a finger mullet found in coastal Florida waters during the spring and fall. Three black-nickel VMC hooks, an enhanced lip and balsa construction provide its action and strength. “Noisy topwater baits can be offensive to fish,” says Capt. Rick Murphy, pro staffer for Rapala lures. “With this balsa bait, you get the enticing side-to-side action without spooking fish.” A tough copolymer shell protects and allows for realistic finishes to the BX Waking Minnow. “The Waking Minnow fishes shallow, tight to shorelines, and won’t get hung up on structure,” says Murphy. “Don’t allow slack in your line, as with a twitch bait; the wake bait has high hookup ratios because the line’s tight when setting the hook.”

Sebile Flat Belly Walker

The Inside Scoop: The newly introduced Sebile Flat Belly Walker is not your typical wake bait — it doesn’t have a lip. “The lure was designed as a topwater wake bait,” says Patrick Sebile. “The unique feature is that its flat belly was inspired by a surfboard.” To work the Flat Belly, reel just fast enough to make a wake. “That can be as easy as a steady retrieve over grass flats and sandy potholes,” he says. “Above the reef, crank five to seven turns to make a wake, then stop for one or two seconds and start the retrieve again.” Sebile recommends throwing the wake bait when game fish are targeting baits 3½ to 4½ inches long.

Yo-Zuri Crystal 3D Minnow Jointed

The Inside Scoop: Yo-Zuri’s Crystal 3D Minnow Jointed wake bait is constructed with a ­triangular lip and strong joint connections made from two loops with a stainless-steel pin. “Anyplace you can throw a walking bait, pencil bait or topwater, you can throw this bait,” says Chris Bishop, national account manager at Yo-Zuri. “It has a wide, snaking action that’s hard to ­replicate.” Cast the jointed wake bait in the early morning or late evening, or during calm, overcast conditions for best results. “When fish feed from below, having your baits up top is vital,” says Bishop. “These baits are great on the flats for striped bass, tarpon, seatrout and redfish.”

The post Today’s Top Wake Baits appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Today’s hottest topwaters, lipped baits and ­subsurface plugs are built from modern plastic blends, manufactured to last longer and attract more fish than ever before. The largest lure manufacturers shy away from timber, leaving woodwork to custom companies that specialize in the handcrafted production process. The effort and time that goes into each wooden plug is immense.

Plastic and wood baits both have worthy spots in any angler’s tackle box. In fact, many of today’s top hard-plastic baits mimic the mesmerizing motion that wooden lures once monopolized. If you’re not utilizing both types — plastic plugs with innovative features or the classic wobble of crafted wood — I strongly suggest diversifying your arsenal.

Distinct Advantages

Wood and plastic plugs each offer unique ­characteristics. It’s up to the angler to decide exactly what he’s looking for in the lure, and in what scenario he wants to fish the lure. With plastic hard baits, expect to get consistent action straight out of the box, while the movement of a specific wooden lure model can differ slightly from plug to plug. Still, when a wooden plug is tuned properly, it’s tough to beat.

“What makes us different is that we start with an actual bait and 3-D scan it,” says Mike Bennett, of Savage Gear. “From our 3-D scan, a positive is made to use as a temporary mold to adjust swimming action. After adjustments, we make a permanent mold.”

Plastic baits like Savage’s Manic Prey and Freestyler also tend to have brighter and more-vibrant colors, along with a larger range of actions and styles.

In this video by Jason Arnold, watch how fish see a Savage Gear Manic Prey Deep Diver lure:

“Patrick Sebile specifically sets out to design his baits for given techniques and applications,” says Chris Pitsilos, Sebile Lures product manager. “For example, the power keel on a Stick Shadd allows the bait to cut through water and aid in the swim action.” For Sebile, it’s not about a specific species to target, but rather modifying molds and designs to get the exact action he wants.

Wooden baits rely on the ­materials from which they’re crafted to attract fish species.

“What started years ago in the surf-fishing community has to lead to quality custom wood plugs across most fishing scenarios,” says Capt. Gene Quigley, of Shore Catch Charters in Manasquan, New Jersey. “Cedar plugs are naturally buoyant, floating completely level in the water; that’s hard to replicate with plastic.”

Also consider that wood is heavy and solid — much heavier than plastic — so it’s easier to cast wooden plugs longer distances. They often reach fish when other plugs can’t.

Allure of the Motion

“I believe a wood lure has the best action in the water, especially in the hands of a skilled fisherman,” says Dick Fincher, of Phase II Lures in Westport, Connecticut. “It’s important when picking a wood lure to know what that lure is designed to do.” Popular Phase II wood plugs like the Scooter Floating Popper and Junior Darting Swimmer come with a fishing‑suggestion card for this reason.

Anglers steeped in the history and tradition of fishing are more apt to consider wooden plugs. “If an angler learned about wood lures from a previous generation, and if he himself is skilled in casting,” says Fincher, “chances are, he will have a wood plug tied to a rod.”

For plastic plugs like the Shimano Orcas, sometimes the action is all about mayhem. Orcas are made from ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) thermo­plastic, an impact-resistant and tough material. Polycarbonate, polypropylene and ABS plastics differ in density, weight and cost, but each is extremely durable. Lure manufacturers pick one plastic over the other when designing a lure to act a certain way, whether that’s a strong, lipped swimming action, durability and strength during high-speed trolling, or a hollow plug that utilizes a weight-transfer system.

Orca’s topwater version is meant to be worked fast and erratically, while the sinking-pencil version works well around feeding fish and panicked bait schools.

In this video by Jason Arnold, watch how fish see a Shimano Orca Floating lure:

“Shimano Orcas are built from plastic to allow for mass production, but also so they can be molded into a distinct round profile,” says Ted Sakai, senior brand manager at Shimano. “The main targets with the Orcas are tuna. You really want to be able to ‘jack’ the lure, causing it to dive and roll, but also to skip across the top of the water.”

In this video by Jason Arnold, watch how fish see a Shimano Pop Orca lure:

Built to Last

Some of the toughest hard baits in today’s market utilize polycarbonate, a plastic resin also used in ­applications such as bullet-resistant windows and Blu-ray discs. Yo-Zuri’s Crystal Minnow and Sashimi Pencil incorporate polycarbonate, as do many of Bomber’s saltwater plugs, such as the Magnum Long A.

In this video by Jason Arnold, watch how fish see a Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow lure:

In this video by Jason Arnold, watch how fish see a Bomber Magnum Long A lure:

Nonwood-lure companies have an advantage as they continue to experiment with new materials. Manufacturers such as Yo-Zuri can build tougher lures, but also incorporate fish-attracting features such as hollow bodies, rattle ­chambers, weight-transfer systems and 3-D prism finishes.

“Yo-Zuri alters polypropylene into a foam material called Power Body for its balance, action, and strength when producing Sashimi Bonitas and Sashimi Bull Poppers,” says Chris Bishop, national account manager at Yo-Zuri. “We have not received a single broken Sashimi Bonita or Bull Popper, even from anglers targeting species such as wahoo.”

Wood-lure manufacturers can’t build their lures via injected molds, but instead start from dowels of wood consisting of birch, pine, balsa and cedar. “Our popular Danny and Pro series of swimmers and ­topwaters is built from Pacific sugar pine,” says Matt Smalley, of Gibbs Lures. “Our Tuna Candy plugs are made from birch, a harder and more-resistant wood that handles strikes from bluefins.”

From those blocks of wood, it’s a 55-step process to the finished product, says Smalley. “Each lure has its own ‘knife,’ a sharp-cut piece of steel used to shape each specific lure,” he says. “Then there’s a drilling portion for the through-wire — it must be perfect, completely dialed in.” Sanding, sealants, drying, primers, painting and assembly all follow, illustrating why wooden handcrafted lures will never be mass-produced.

“Anglers love the action of our metal-lipped swimmers, often called ‘Dannys.’ Its action in the water is difficult to replicate with plastic,” says Smalley. “Add the sex appeal we give with paint, plus the natural buoyancy and weight of wood, and coastal anglers catch all kinds of fish on our lures.”

Wooden plugs are most popular in the Atlantic striped bass and bluefish fisheries, but they also catch seatrout, redfish, tarpon, and snook. Even if the wood loses some of its finish, it doesn’t stop attracting fish. As Fincher explains, “It’s fair to think of wooden plugs as an art, but art with a purpose — which is to catch fish!”

The post Wood or Plastic? appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Sight-casting plugs shares much of the skills and excitement that are part of fly fishing. Besides demanding skill and accuracy in casting, plugging requires a realistic retrieve and lots of practice to reach a successful cast-to-hookup ratio. A great bass fisherman is usually a refined plug-caster, so are many hardcore tarpon anglers.

Before fly-gear manufacturers developed the heavy tackle necessary to subdue large saltwater fish, plugs were the mainstays in artificials. Harold LeMaster brought his love of freshwater plugging, plus his passion for making lures, to Tampa Bay, Florida, in the early 1950s. Tarpon soon became LeMaster’s favorite quarry, so he had to develop a way to catch them on plug.

“He’d go out every day and fish for tarpon,” says Bachnik. “Fifty years ago there were two ways to fish for tarpon: soaking pinfish on the bottom or plugging as they moved down the coast. Harold liked to throw larger lures, which sometimes led to strikes from larger fish.”

On June 6, 1952, LeMaster hooked one of those “larger” fish on one of his plugs. After 17-1/2 hours, unable to turn the monster with 220 yards of 18-pound, hollow-braided nylon, he could only hang on as the fish dragged him for more than 25 miles. The fight lingered into the night, and a crowd of more than 1,000 people lined a nearby causeway to watch, guided by huge spotlights from the fire department, as he battled both the tarpon (estimated at 170 pounds) and fatigue. Finally, the MirrOlure sprang out of the tarpon’s mouth, landing on LeMaster’s shirt, its hooks badly corroded from the saltwater and acid in the fish’s mouth.
LeMaster relished what the rest of us anticipate when reeling in a plug: the strike. Bachnik agrees that’s the most exciting moment. “We’re using methods and plugs that you’d normally use to catch bass or trout, but instead of fishing for 5- to 10-pounders, we’re targeting a species that gets well over 100 pounds,” he says.

Give ’em a Gearful
Although the fishing style may remind some of freshwater or mangrove fishing, casting to large tarpon requires tackle that is both resilient and responsive. Top guides like Tampa Bay’s Capt. Bob Puccinelli consider the right gear to be a critical element in plugging for tarpon. A three-time winner of the King Tarpon Classic, one of the area’s most prestigious tarpon tournaments with an artificials-only format, Puccinelli’s gear holds up to the biggest tarpon. Rods with muscle, reels with smooth drags and Dacron line prove most reliable and consistent.

Spare the rod, spool the ‘poon. That would be an appropriate mantra when plugging for big tarpon. The need to “flip” a plug at an approaching school, drive home a solid hook-set, and rely on endurance under sustained/ erratic pressure all weigh heavily on your rod. Focus on length and stiffness when searching for a tarpon-plugging rod. Puccinelli prefers a 7- to 7-1/2-foot, medium-action, graphite custom rod with a bouncy tip. The longer rod helps the hook-set, while the bouncy tip allows the rod to fling your plug farther when casting. Experienced plug-casters won’t have a problem with this rig, but for those new to baitcasting gear or tarpon fishing, manufacturers reveal what to look for in rods.

Kenny Carman of Biscayne Rods in Miami, Florida, says anglers should avoid going too light when choosing a rod. “It’s all a simple math calculation,” says Carman. “You want a situation where the rod’s going to break the line before the line breaks the rod. Rods break because people don’t consider this or want a do-it-all rig.”

Secondly, Carman would ask the angler if he prefers more line pickup and longer casts or more pressure on the fish instead of the angler. A longer rod (7-1/2 feet) will cast farther but put more pressure on the angler. A shorter rod transfers pressure to the fish but won’t pick up as much line. Ideally, anglers should use a 7-footer, but for starters, try a rod under 7 feet to gain more control and accuracy. All rods should be in the 12- to 20-pound range.

When shopping for the right tip, look for one with a slight flex. All Star Rods in Houston, Texas, has a “Power Rating” system that numbers its rods from one to eight (with eight the stiffest). Marketing director Brett Crawford suggests ‘pooning with a rod rated 5 or 6. This way, the rod will be stiff, but the tip will have enough flex to flip a plug.

Once you choose the rod, you need a reel and line to match. Puccinelli likes to spool his baitcasters with 175 to 200 yards of 16-to 20-pound Gudebrod Dacron line. Dacron, with less stretch and smaller diameter than mono, provides a more effective hook-set and more line capacity on the already-small spools. He prefers the Abu-Garcia Ambassadeur 6500 series or the Daiwa Millionaire CV-Z253A. Other manufacturers, including Shimano and Penn, make baitcasters with similar specifications. Whichever reel you decide on, the key is to keep the drag smooth. Carry extra drag washers, and be prepared to change them as often as necessary. This could be once a trip or once a season, depending on the reel and how many fish it catches. Once the drag starts slipping or becoming uneven, replace the washers immediately.

On the terminal end, Puccinelli uses blood knots to attach 10 feet of 30-pound mono leader, then adds 16 inches of 60-pound fluorocarbon for abrasion-resistance against the tarpon’s bony mouth. Fluorocarbon’s low visibility also helps in clear-water conditions. Use a Homer Rhode or MirrOlure loop knot to tie off the plug.

Which plugs are most effective? Because of their anatomy, tarpon prefer to feed on bait at or above eye level. Slow-sinking plugs work best for most applications. “If you look at the nature of a tarpon (massive underbite and high eye-set), they feed looking up,” says Puccinelli. “You want lures at their eye level or higher. Find something that hovers in the water or sinks slowly.”

Plugs such as MirrOlure’s TT-series work perfectly for this application. But standard hooks run small for tarpon (the series is made for trout); replace them with the No.1 VMC single hook. These hooks can be purchased directly from MirrOlure or from dealers as “tarpon specials.”

Optimum colors vary according to conditions. In areas with clear water — like the beaches and shallow flats in Tampa Bay — throw purple during low-light hours (early morning or late afternoon). Once the sun gets high, switch to chartreuse or green back/silver sides. In contrast, when the Bay’s water gets stained, Puccinelli uses white or fire-glow/silver body.

The Game’s Afoot

“You’re going to see fish pushing headwakes, rolling, laid-up, daisy-chaining swimming in single-file schools) and milling around,” Puccinelli says, describing the different things to look for when stalking schools of tarpon. Knowing specifically what to look for can be gained only through experience.

On the flats, start looking in 3 to 6 feet of water. Tarpon behavior becomes easier to recognize as you go. Look for black shadows in the water. The best scenario involves getting ahead of the school and letting the fish come to you. Cast 5 to 10 feet in front of them, and then bring the bait toward the boat. Move the bait 6 to 9 inches at a time, then twitch and repeat. Don’t slow the retrieve if the tarpon shows interest. Instead, speed up a little to imitate a fleeing baitfish.

Along the beaches, look from the surf line to the outside sandbar where water depth averages about 4 to 8 feet. Most of the time fish work the second sandbar, where wave action digs a trough. Tarpon form distinct lines as they drop into little holes along the way, looking for bait. The ideal scenario occurs when the water depth changes. They’ll slow down to get their sense of direction, setting up the perfect time to fool them with an artificial.

In dirty water like river mouths or in passes on outgoing tides, these fish don’t always group up, so Capt. Mark Bennett of Charlotte Harbor, Florida, suggests casting to an area where fish show, and then working the plug through the water column.

The low stretch of Dacron line transmits a tarpon’s power when it smashes a lure. Adding the fact that you may catch 100+-pound fish on normally outclassed casting gear really adds to the thrill of sight fishing with artificials.

However, plugging for fish as large as tarpon brings inherent dangers. When a tarpon with six or nine hooks dangling in its mouth gets close to the boat, one should be cautious. A lifetime of plug fishing for tarpon has taught Bennett some scary lessons on handling tarpon. The first advice he gives is to use a lip gaff, not a gaff with a long handle.

“We pulled a small tarpon into the boat to take a picture, and within seconds the fish went crazy,” says Bennett. “My friend thought he had it, but his hands slipped on the gaff’s handle and its hook ripped into his forearm. He needed 22 stitches.”

Bennett advises anglers to not bring fish inside the boat: It’s bad for the fish and invites disaster. He suggests that before people use a lip gaff, they observe a guide or someone with experience performing an on the water demonstration with a tarpon before attempting the procedure. Once the tarpon is boatside, put on a set of thick gloves and run the lip gaff through the bottom lip. Avoid putting your hands into the tarpon’s mouth or anywhere near the plug. The hooks can snag gloves. Once the gaff is set, put it tight against the boat’s rub rail to get leverage. Then use a lure retriever to remove the plug from the tarpon’s mouth. Revive the fish if necessary, and then pull the gaff out for a quick release.

The post How to Catch Tarpon with Plugs appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Halco Skim Stick 185

Halco Tackle’s new topwater Skim Stick 185 is a hybrid lure that blends the characteristics of a stick bait and skittering popper. It imitates a long, narrow baitfish fleeing on the surface. Intended for long‑casting and slow‑trolling blue‑water applications, the lure moves frantically across the water. The clear‑polymer lure features a distinctive head design, measures 7 1/4 inches, weighs 2 5/8 ounces and comes with two (Japanese) Decoy 5/0 inline J hooks. Available with internal holographics and traditional finishes, it costs $22.99 at basspro​.com. Visit halco​tackle​.com.

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Yo-Zuri Crystal 3D Minnow Jointed Waker

In this video, Yo-Zuri’s George Large uses the Yo-Zuri Crystal 3D Minnow Jointed Wake to explain why lures that reflect ultraviolet (UV) light give anglers an advantage when fishing murky or stained waters.

Here’s a little bit more about this lure:

Yo-Zuri’s Crystal 3D Minnow Jointed Waker offers a wide swimming action and a unique triangle lip that enables the lure to be fished slowly. It features a “bleeding ruby” and UV sapphire balanced weight insert, as well as sharp treble hooks and an “attack-point” belly hook. The fish-attracting UV finish is available on certain color patterns. The suggested retail price is $17.99. Call 888-336-2280 or visit yo-zuri.com. SEE MORE VIDEOS ON THE ICAST 2013 PAGE.

The post ICAST Video How-To Series: Yo-Zuri Ultraviolet Lures appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

jiggy with it

Williamson’s Gomoku jig features a long, symmetrical shape that’s made to fish fast and impart erratic action. Available in four lengths from 2¾ to 3¾ inches (¾ to 2 ounces), the jigs come with a single VMC treble hook, and mimic baitfish such as cigar minnows, sardines, glass minnows, anchovies and candlefish. They’re designed to be cast and either retrieved near the surface or jigged at depth. Gomokus come in six colors including black purple, blue sardine and holographic chartreuse glow, and cost $5.99 to $6.99. Visit rapala.com.

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3 wire flash

The multilure rigs that have ignited the bass world resemble saltwater umbrella rigs, but they cast rather than troll. To offer ocean anglers the same option, Bomber Saltwater Grade devised the castable 3-Wire Flash. The rig features stainless-steel lure arms with snaps at the ends and midsections. It comes with willow blades attached to the upper snaps, but those can be swapped for more lures. Bomber recommends trying swimbaits on jig heads, Who Dat spoons or crankbaits. 3-Wire Flash rigs come in two head colors — citrus shad and mullet — and cost $19.99. Call 479‑782‑8971 or visit ­bombersaltwater​grade​.com.

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