A new agreement between Sharrow Marine and Yamaha Marine Precision Propellers will enable Sharrow Marine to manufacture its award-winning propellers in Yamaha’s state-of-the-art facility and foundry in Greenfield, Indiana. Yamaha will also offer Sharrow propellers through its boat builder and dealer distribution channels.

Yamaha will offer Sharrow Propellers as a new option on models of Yamaha’s boatbuilder partners and its network of more than 2000 dealers. Sharrow props will have unique SKU numbers for Yamaha dealers to easily order for these uniquely designed propellers for customers.

“Yamaha has world-wide respect for the quality and dependability of its products. We’re proud to have the opportunity to manufacture our high-tech propellers in Yamaha’s new, state-of-the-art casting facility in Indiana,” said Greg Sharrow, CEO of Sharrow Marine. “We’re also excited to have access to the Yamaha distribution network, which will dramatically accelerate our efforts to deliver the Sharrow Propeller to boaters across the world.”

Sharrow’s propeller design offers a host of performance improvements including higher speed per RPM, better handling, reduced vibration, a stronger propeller structure, according to Sharrow. The company claim the props are up to 30 percent more efficient than the industry-leading conventional propeller designs. It won the an NMMA Innovation Award at the 2020 Miami International Boat Show.

Read Next: The Fine Art of Making Propellers for Outboards

“Sharrow Marine’s choice of Yamaha as a manufacturing and distribution partner underscores Yamaha’s leadership position in the casting industry,” said Jonathon Burns, general manager, Yamaha US Marine Planning and Development. “Through our new relationship with Sharrow Marine, Yamaha can offer boat builders, dealers and customers an even greater number of options when it comes to maximizing boat performance through propeller selection.”

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To help fine-tune the performance of its V-8 425 hp XTO Offshore outboard, Yamaha has added 18-, 20- and 22-pitch three-blade props (in 16 1/8-, 16 3/8- and 16 5/8-inch diameters). Designed to harness the torque potential of the XTO, these large-diameter props feature a specially designed blade surface to move today’s big offshore center-console boats. The props work as part of a system to produce thrust in both forward and reverse. In fact, the outboard and prop together can produce up to 300 percent more reverse thrust than Yamaha’s previous V-8 engine, the F350. The props will be priced at the dealer level.

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The Yamaha Marine Group has announced 10 new products applicable to the saltwater market for 2017 — from outboards to propellers and engine controls.

On the higher-horsepower end, the company added 25-inch-shaft models to its four-stroke V MAX SHO lineup in 175 and 115 hp. The X-Shaft versions accommodate specific applications — such as bay boats and smaller center consoles — where a compact, lighter weight 25-inch solution is needed. (Previously those SHO outboards only came in 20-inch versions.)

Yamaha 175 V MAX SHO X-Shaft

The 2.8-liter inline four-cylinder 175 X-Shaft comes with Variable Camshaft Timing, double-overhead cams, and twin counterbalance shafts. A mechanically controlled outboard, the 175 can be equipped with analog, 6Y5 digital or Command Link gauges.

Yamaha V MAX SHO 115 X-Shaft

The 1.8-liter 115 X-Shaft features Yamaha’s 16-valve double-overhead cam four-cylinder design, long-track intake system and free-flow exhaust. It weighs 386 pounds.

Yamaha F90 and F75

On the smaller end, new F90 (pictured) and F75 four-strokes represents next-generation technology that have produced outboards that are lighter and quicker than their predecessors, Yamaha says. Not only is the F90 quieter, it has the quickest four-stroke 90-horsepower acceleration available – period,” says Ben Speciale, Yamaha Marine Group president.

The F90 and F75 employ a single overhead camshaft to drive four valves per cylinder, saving weight while increasing volumetric efficiency – and making more power, Yamaha says. Weighing in at 353 pounds, the F90 is 13 pounds lighter than its predecessor and displaces 1.8 liters versus 1.6 liters.

The outboards can be paired with several Yamaha propellers with the exclusive Shift Dampener System (SDS), including Talon (GP and Pontoon), for even greater quiet and comfort.

Yamaha F25

And finally for the outboard lineup, Yamaha debuted the F25, the smallest midrange outboard at 126 pounds. “The new F25 is 25 percent lighter than its predecessor, comes packed with powerful benefits and even outperforms the traditional Yamaha 25-horsepower two stroke,” Speciale says.

The F25 features no-battery-required Electronic Fuel Injection and an all-new two-cylinder powerhead. For greater control, the new F25 also features a pull start through the cowling, which comes standard on all electric start models, except for the F25LC.

Yamaha’s new F25 includes several new updates that make it even more convenient than its predecessor. For example, the outboard is now resting-pad equipped on two sides for more storage options. The external oil-draining system offers easy maintenance for either dealer or consumer. And an electric starting kit is available as a field upgrade.

New Yamaha Shift-Dampening System Propellers

To its propeller lineup, Yamaha has added three new products for boaters using 150- to 300-horsepower outboards: Reliance SDS, Saltwater Series II SDS and Saltwater Series HS4 SDS — all feature the company’s shift-dampening system. SDS technology delivers quiet shifting and smooth, low-speed operation.

Saltwater Series II SDS props fit Yamaha F200 through F300 V6 outboards; they feature a large blade area and progressive rake angle for better acceleration and load-carrying capacity. They’re available in 17- through 23-inch pitches as well as 13- and 15-inch.

Yamaha SDS Reliance and HS4 SDS Propellers

Reliance SDS props match Yamaha’s larger inline four-cylinder four-strokes — the F150 through the F200. They’re available in 13- through 21-inch pitches and in right- and left-hand rotation.

The Saltwater Series HS4 SDS four-blade props (image not available) can be used with Yamaha 200- to 300-hp four-strokes. The high-performance V6 props provide added grip in turns and higher mounting heights. They’re available in 21- through 23-inch pitches and left-/right-hand rotation.

Yamaha Remote Variable Trolling RPM Switch and 704 Shift Control

Compatible with Yamaha models F25C through F115 and 115 V MAX SHO, Yamaha’s new Remote Variable Trolling RPM Switch and 704 Shift Control for mechanical operation were designed to improve the overall boating experience.

The new 704 features new aesthetics and better ergonomics with a shorter chrome handle, providing more options for rigging the latest boats. The VTS does not require a gauge for adjusting the variable trolling function.

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Designed for higher-horsepower single-outboard bay boats and multispecies hulls under heavy loads, Mercury‘s Bravo I LT four-blade propeller improves planing and trim response, resulting in increased top speed, Mercury says. The prop features a diameter of 15¼ inches and comes in 15 pitch offerings, from 20 to 27½ inches, for two- and four-stroke outboards. The Bravo I LT features Mercury’s Performance Vent System, which enables anglers to dial in the prop for peak performance. The Bravo I LT costs $740.42.

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Mercury Marine has introduced the SpitFire X7, a stainless-steel propeller designed to improve all performance facets of the growing 75- to 115-­horsepower outboard class. Mercury says SpitFire X7 is the first in that class to be marketed with the company’s proprietary X7 alloy, which is said to be 30 percent stronger and four times more durable than conventional stainless steel. Using the X7 alloy and design elements from the aluminum SpitFire, the four-blade SpitFire X7 significantly improves acceleration, top speed and holding ability compared to other similar stainless-steel propellers, Mercury says. The SpitFire X7 is available in 15-, 17-, 19- and 21-inch pitches, and costs $564.

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I recently re-powered my 21½-foot center-console with a 200-horsepower outboard and assisted in the installation so I might better understand the nuances of proper setup of an outboard motor.

Of course, most boating anglers don’t install and mount outboard motors. On many new boats, power comes pre-installed. That means outboards are rigged and fine-tuned to optimize performance right out of the gate.

Other boats, however, are delivered without power, and the dealer does the outboard installation. A dealer usually handles re-powers as well.

Customers are wise to rely heavily on the advice of their marine engine dealer. Yet it’s good to know the basics of outboard setup so you understand, for example, why the dealer might recommend changing the outboard motor mounting height of the new outboard.

Based on what I learned in the process of wrenching on outboards and talking with representatives from major engine brands, here are topics you might want to discuss with the dealer who rigs your next motor. To keep things simple, I focus largely on single-outboard applications, but the same principles apply to multi-engine installations.

If you’re re-powering an older boat, have the transom checked for rot once the old motor is off. An aging boat with laminated plywood in the transom (most new boats use advanced coring materials and lamination processes) is prone to deterioration over time from water seeping into the wood. Ask your dealer to check the structural integrity of the transom. Don’t mount an outboard motor to a rickety transom. If the transom is bad, you need to decide whether to rebuild it before the new power is installed or look for a new boat, depending on the cost-benefit analysis of the repairs and new motor versus the price of another boat.

This is also a good time to replace elements such as a corroded transom rail cap or other pieces you can’t otherwise access with the motor installed. If the dealer tells you the transom is sound, make sure he uses a top-quality marine bedding compound designed for use below the waterline, such as 3M 4000 or BoatLife LifeSeal, to seal the bolt holes when installing and mounting the new motor. This will prevent water intrusion.

Avoid high-strength sealants such as 3M 5200, or else you’ll almost have to pry off the engine with a crowbar on future re-powers. If re-powering, insist on all new bolts, washers and nuts, as the old hardware may have corroded, stretched or fatigued during the time you ran your old engine.

Setting the Outboard Height

Setting the Outboard Motor Height

The height of the outboard is one of the most critical elements of setup, and that’s why outboards have a series of vertically aligned mounting holes on the motor bracket, allowing for adjustment of the engine height. Some bay boats and flats skiffs also have jack plates to facilitate adjustments in outboard motor height.

If the outboard is too low, it creates excessive drag, which cuts into speed and fuel efficiency. If it’s too high, the propeller tends to ventilate, losing its bite on the water and blowing out while turning and in steep seas.

“If the prop consistently ventilates when heading down a steep wave, the outboard is probably set too high,” says Dean Corbisier, advertising and public relations manager for Suzuki Marine.

A dealer might guess at the optimum outboard motor mounting height by aligning the anti-ventilation plate slightly above or at the same level as the bottom of the boat. Or he might rely on his experience in rigging the same boat-and-motor combinations.

Sometimes, when re-powering with the same model motor, you can determine the best height for your outboard before you take off the old one, assuming the old engine is still running well, says Corbisier.

“To find out if your existing ­outboard is set at the best possible height, start with the engine in idle, and trim the outboard out one-half to nearly full trim,” Corbisier explains. “Then safely accelerate at a brisk pace.” If the propeller does not ventilate during this exercise, the engine is set too low on the transom, which means you probably want to raise it a peg or two. If it ventilates, you can likely use the same mounting holes for a same-model replacement, says Corbisier.

Gear-Case Changes When Mounting a New Motor

The relative size of the new engine’s gear case might call for a change in outboard height, says Chris Chapman, manager of outboard applications for Mercury Marine. Chapman points to Mercury’s original Verado and OptiMax outboards, which featured 4.8-inch-diameter gear cases. With a few exceptions, these models now feature larger, 5.44-inch-diameter gear cases for greater durability when powering today’s supersize center-consoles.

“The bigger cases create more lift and run higher than the older, smaller ones,” Chapman explains. So if the replacement Verado or OptiMax has the larger gear case, you want to mount it at least one hole higher (placing the outboard lower) than the previous motor for ­optimum fuel efficiency and speed.

But, Chapman warns, “You definitely don’t want the anti-ventilation plate below the bottom of the boat.” It acts like a planing surface that lifts the stern and pushes the bow downward.

Prop Considerations When Mounting A New Outboard Motor

The combination of setup parameters — including horsepower, outboard height and gear-case diameter — will also affect the choice of propeller. “It’s all interrelated,” says Corbisier. “Each element influences the other.”

Generally speaking, if you raise the engine height, you can add propeller pitch, the theoretical linear distance that a propeller travels with each revolution. “Adding pitch can further improve fuel efficiency and speed,” Corbisier points out.

Yet the converse also holds true. “If you need to lower the outboard, you might also need to go with less propeller pitch,” he adds.

Ultimately, my experience and research taught me that effective outboard setup is a combination of educated guesswork and field-testing. Only through sea trials and subsequent adjustments can you fine-tune outboard performance. Thank goodness major boatbuilders do all of this for us before delivering the finished product.

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Most outboard motors — 90 percent by some estimates — use three-blade propellers, and they offer strong performance for most boating applications. Yet, can boating anglers expect better performance from a four-blade prop? The answer is yes — and no — according to major outboard brands such as Honda, Mercury, Suzuki and Yamaha.

Three-blade propellers are popular because they tend to offer a performance compromise, a pleasing (or at least satisfactory) blend of acceleration, fuel efficiency, lift and speed, says David Meeler, marine product information manager for Yamaha Outboards.

Yet, if you want to improve one of these attributes over another acceleration, a four-blade might help, Meeler says. “Just be aware that performance gains in one area can mean performance losses in another,” he adds. “It’s all about what’s most ­important to you.”

Meeler adds an important caveat: Before changing props, make sure there are no other factors adversely affecting performance, such as hull fouling, lack of adequate power, or improper weight distribution, he reminds boating anglers. Only after you are confident that the boat and power are well-tuned should you then move on to trying different propellers.

Define Your Goals

The first step lies in deciding which performance attributes you desire most. For example, the captain of a flats boat might want to enhance the boat’s ability to pop up on plane more quickly. Or perhaps he’s looking to add hull lift for running in very shallow water. “Often, a four-blade propeller is the ticket,” Meeler says. “The additional blade area grips the water better, allowing for quicker acceleration.” The greater blade area also lifts the hull more while underway, which minimizes draft.

However, there is a tradeoff. The additional drag generated by an extra propeller blade can also reduce top speed, Meeler advises.

Some boating anglers might want more speed, but today many are seeking greater fuel efficiency for their boats, as well as the fishing range that comes with better mpg. “This is where a four-blade prop can really help,” says Jim Loftus, Department Head, Senior Manager, Strategic Planning, American Honda Motor Co.

“The extra lift of four-blade props helps keep a relatively heavy center-console boat on plane while traversing rough seas in the mid range, say around 3,000 rpm,” Loftus points out. “That’s far more efficient than slogging along off-plane, and a lot more comfortable and safe than pushing up the speed in heavy seas.”

Also, boats tend to gain weight as they age, usually as the result of adding fishing accessories, hardtops, towers, livewells, coolers and other gear over the years. “The propping that worked just fine when the boat was new might not be adequate 10 years later,” Loftus explains. “Four-blade propping might be just what you need to add lift to the older, heavier boat.”

Ventilation Issues

Ventilation — the tendency of the blades to lose their “bite” — often occurs when props are immersed in aerated water, such as the wake of a stepped-hull boat. On other boats, aeration might occur as a result of poorly positioned water intakes or large through-hull transducers.

A four-blade is less likely to ­ventilate in aerated water, simply because it has more blades to grab the water. That’s why you see some stepped hulls equipped with these props.

Four-blades can resolve other ­ventilation issues. For example, if the jack plate on a bay boat is too high, the prop tends to lose its bite and ventilates. The grip of a four-blade allows a bay-boat captain to maximize the height of the outboard, and cross flats that might not be navigable with a three-blade prop.

Seek Guidance

Assuming you want to improve some aspect of performance, your dealer and his service department can help you make a decision, Lufton says. “But at the same time, it’s important to communicate your expectations so the dealer can recommend props to achieve your performance goals.”

Another good source of ­guidance includes outboard-company ­websites. The Yamaha Prop Selector at yamaha​­outboards.com, for example, contains a wealth of information, including a 7-step process for narrowing down the selection to best candidates.

The Prop Calculator at marine.honda.com and the Prop Selector at mercurymarine.com also offer interactive sections that help boaters calculate and choose the most appropriate props based on boat type, performance goals and outboard power.

Seeking the real-world ­experience of owners who run your boat model can also prove helpful, says Dave Greenwood, general manager for the Suzuki Marine Technical Center USA. “Look for boats at the marina or launch ramp and ask the captains about the props they are running,” Greenwood suggests. Try to pare down the field to three or four candidates.

Test and Evaluate

An important step is to procure ­propellers for testing. You might be able to work with your dealer on this. Some dealers also have rental programs. Most of the time, however, you need to purchase test props from a dealer. (That’s when you will find that four blades cost more than three.) “Just make sure there’s an understanding that you plan to return most of them undamaged for a refund after testing,” says Greenwood.

It is important to test each prop under the same conditions, says Yamaha’s Meeler. “A simple variable such as warming air temperatures can affect speed as much as 5 percent,” he explains. Also, make sure the water conditions are the same. For the sake of ease, try to test on flat water.

When testing, make sure the boat is fueled and loaded as if you were going fishing. That means full of ice and tackle, full livewells and full crew, if possible. It’s also important to use the same criteria for each prop test, and to make this simple, Yamaha offers a detailed Propeller Performance Evaluation form that you can obtain from an authorized Yamaha Outboard dealer. Use the form to record performance data for later evaluation.

For consistent and accurate results, use a GPS (found aboard most fishing boats) for recording boat speed, a stopwatch (like the one on a smartphone) for timing acceleration, a fuel-flow meter (found on many fishing boats) for determining fuel ­efficiency, and a tachometer.

Ultimately, these tools, resources and guidelines — plus some on-water testing — can help lead you to the right propeller, be it three- or four-blade, that enhances the performance characteristics you desire most in your saltwater fishing boat.

Read Next: The Fine Art of Making Propellers for Outboards

Diameter and Pitch

Two key measurements of a propeller are diameter and pitch. Pitch is the theoretical distance (e.g., 19 inches) a propeller will move a boat with one revolution of the prop shaft. Generally speaking, the diameter of a four-blade prop is smaller than that of a three-blade prop with the same pitch. This helps a four-blade spin up quickly and allows the motor to rev as high as it would with a three-blade of comparable pitch. Nearly all saltwater props for outboards are made from stainless steel.

Evaluating for Lift

Though not measured directly, lift is the inverse of minimum planing speed — the lower the minimum planing speed, the greater the lift. So, one way to evaluate props for lift is to measure the lowest speed at which each one enables a boat to plane. That prop that helps the boat at lowest speed of all is the one that should provide the greatest lift. Make sure you test in a marine environment rather than your local lake, as salt water has greater buoyancy than fresh water.

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