If the pandemic has driven you outside and into the floating realm we call boat ownership, congratulations. If that same pursuit also put a fishing rod in your hands, all the better.

Yet, now that the weather has grown colder, many new boating anglers might fret that the fun has ended. Not necessarily.

Of course, the farther north you live, the less likely you can maintain some on-water presence during winter. But if the winter weather remains mostly mild where you live, here are some tips from our seasoned boating and fishing staff members that will keep you on the water longer.

1. Protect Your Feet

Wear deck boots. Nothing is more miserable than wet feet in cold weather. Deck boots keep your feet as dry as possible should the boat take spray or you need to wash down the deck. Most deck boots for fishing don’t feature insulation, so consider foot warmers between your socks and the insoles.

2. Master the Layers

The saying goes: There’s no such thing as bad weather just bad clothes. To keep warm and dry, layers can include a thermal base layer, wool socks, a hoodie or beanie, winter buff, gloves and an insulated jacket and pants, as well as foul-weather gear bibs. Chemical hand warmers placed in your pockets can also keep your hands warm or re-warm your hands after you handle a fish or bait.

It’s also a good idea to carry spare warm clothing with you in case you get wet or in case a friend needs a warmer coat.

3. Ice, Ice

When it dips below freezing, dew from the prior evening hours can freeze on the deck, gunwale tops and railings, as well as on docks. Remember to check for ice; it can result in a nasty spill or even a man-overboard situation.

4. Weather Wizard

Become a weather junkie by following your local weather forecasts on TV and online. Keep the National Weather Service zone forecasts bookmarked on your browser, and check out apps like FishWeather and Buoyweather.

Good-weather days occur less frequently in winter, so watch the forecasts and be ready to go when conditions allow.

Read Next: Gale-Force Fishing — Trolling in Rough Seas

5. Enclose Your Helm

If you don’t already have top-to-console windscreens or a clear-vinyl enclosure, consider your options for better protecting your helm from spray and wind. A canvas fabricator can build a vinyl enclosure for a center console as long as it has a canvas T-top or hardtop.

6. Turn Up the Heat

Speaking of keeping the helm warm, many of today’s center-console boats come with air-conditioning systems with vents at the helm and elsewhere. We tend to think of these in terms of just cooling, but they can also serve as heaters to warm up the crew. That’s a great benefit on chilly days. 

7. Oil Swap

Some engine manufacturers recommend using a lower-viscosity engine oil during colder weather for optimum lubrication. The owner’s manual for a Suzuki DF200AP outboard, for example, recommends shifting to a 5W-30 grade engine oil when air temperatures drop to 41 degrees F or below, versus 10W-40 grade oil for warmer weather. Boating anglers should check the recommendations in their owner’s manual to be sure.

8. Fish Deep and Slow

Many species migrate through different areas during winter, including sailfish and wahoo offshore. In shallower waters, trout and redfish (those that don’t head offshore) lay up in deep holes that contain warmer water. On sunny days, they look for shallow flats over dark mud bottoms that warm quickly.

Speak to your local tackle shop owner to learn the techniques for catching what’s prevalent in your area. For inshore fishing, the basic rule of thumb on most days is to fish deeper and slower. Fish don’t move as much when the water chills, so don’t make them work too hard to chase a lure.

9. Warm Liquids

Skip the alcohol until you’re safely back at the marina. Bring warm liquids and soups in insulated bottles to help keep you hydrated but toasty.

10. Serious about Safety

Even in Florida, the water gets cold during the winter, and you don’t want to spend any time in it. So get serious about safety. Wear your life jacket and strap a personal locater beacon to it. If you’re heading offshore, invest in an automatic EPIRB and mount it properly. Check all of your required safety gear and fire extinguishers to make sure they’re current and working.

Maintain your outboards and invest in a Sea Tow membership. With fewer buddies on the water during winter you won’t have many options for assistance.

Make sure your mounted VHF radio is hooked up correctly so that you can use its digital selective calling feature in an emergency, and register your radio’s MMSI (Maritime Mobile Service Identity) number with the U.S. Coast Guard.

Having a VHF radio on board gives you direct access to emergency marine-based personnel. Don’t rely on just a cellphone.

And finally, tell someone where you plan to go and when they should expect you back.

The post 10 Quick Tips to Keep You on the Water Longer This Winter appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

West Marine Coastal Automatic Inflatable Life Jacket

Drab? Perhaps. Critical? Absolutely. Don’t fool yourself, anything can happen on the water. West Marine’s coastal jacket inflates automatically: Even if you’re knocked silly, you’ll float face up. This jacket’s low profile means you’ll barely know it’s there—until you need it. $149.99; westmarine.com.

YakAttack Omega

A fishing kayak without rod holders is an expensive plastic cork. Doll up your ride with a few YakAttack Omega track-mounted holders. They keep your reels out of the water and rotate to point any direction. They adapt to fly, spin, baitcast and even conventional tackle. $30; yakattack.us.

Bending Branches Angler Pro Plus

Your paddle might grow cobwebs on your pedal kayak, but when you must blade home after a freak grounding, you’ll beg for carbon fiber. Heavy kayaks with elevated frame seats require high-power paddles like the 30-ounce Angler Pro Plus. A telescoping ferrule allows multiple feathering angles and paddle lengths. $324.95; bendingbranches.com.

Yeti Hopper Flip 12

The perfect passenger for a SUP or kayak, this chill cube can be bungeed anywhere on deck. Fill it with a 4-pound Yeti ice pack, lunch, and drinks or slime it up with bait. The outer shell is made from the same stuff they use for whitewater rafts. $249.99; yeti.com.

Garmin GPSMap 86sci

Kayaks and SUPs take us way off the main channel, but with a handheld GPS and satellite communicator like the 86sci, you’re never off the grid. With two-way messaging, you can even start the brag chain before you get home. $649.99; garmin.com.

The post Must-Have Gear & Accessories for Your Fishing Kayak or SUP appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

As anglers and boaters—and humans—we all suffer from some degree of denial syndrome. For instance, many of us, since we’re obviously experts, assume we’ll never experience a serious emergency on the water.

“That won’t happen to me,” we say.

“I won’t fall overboard.”

“My boat won’t capsize.”

“I won’t get injured.”

When these experiences happen to others, we quickly rationalize. We would never have put ourselves in that position. Right? Yet, we can’t control everything.

Yes, 99 times out of 100, we have an awesome day on the water. But we must acknowledge that slight chance that our best efforts might be overwhelmed by circumstance. This month, as we look forward to a spring and summer full of fun saltwater adventures and to National Safe Boating Week in May, let’s pledge to get serious about safety.

Attitude Adjustment

In 2019, the U.S. Coast Guard ran 15,000 national search-and-rescue cases (commercial and recreational) and saved 1,700 lives. According to the Coast Guard’s Recreational Boating Statistics, the number of boating accidents in 2018, saltwater and freshwater, numbered 4,145. While those numbers might seem a small percentage of all boaters and all trips, they’re not insignificant.

When you think about it, we have quite a few products that can help optimize our safety on the water, from personal flotation devices, whistles and strobes to VHF radios with digital selective calling, satphones and emergency beacons. For the purposes of this column, by its definition, I will focus on electronic devices—particularly those that can summon immediate help on the water.

“Safety is the thing you’ll put off till next year,” says Mikele D’Arcangelo, vice president of global marketing and product management for ACR Electronics. Some people think: “It’s just a bunch of money sitting in a ditch bag or on the console, unlike that rod I’ll use every time I go out.

Then suddenly, national attention is drawn to an offshore tragedy, and we’re left with “what if?”

Once you commit to being proactive, a first rule of thumb to remember is simple and universal: Be prepared, whether that means actually wearing your PFD, having digital selective calling properly set up, wearing a personal locator beacon or SEND device such as an inReach or SPOT, or placing your EPIRB in an accessible position.

Let’s Evaluate

Secondly, consider your vessel and your fishing habits: how far offshore you go, whether you fish at night, whether you fish alone, etc. That will help you choose from among tools such as EPIRBs, personal locator beacons, man-overboard systems, and satellite emergency notification devices.

You say, “Well, I have a cellphone and I don’t go that far offshore.” Or, “I have a satphone. I can call for help.” But cellphones drop calls, get wet, and they don’t channel directly to marine rescue agencies. Satphones can be more reliable, but again, they don’t immediately summon on-water help. Beacons, SENDs and DSC-enabled VHFs do. MOB systems immediately alert crew and in some cases, other nearby boaters.

As long as your boat is floating, has power, and you’re still mobile and on board, turn first to the VHF. If the boat loses power or, worse yet, sinks, a PLB or an EPIRB can transmit a distress signal through a satellite to COSPAS SARSAT, a global agency that can immediately direct help to your location.

An EPIRB floats right-side up and is designed to tether to your life jacket. A PLB floats but must be held upright to transmit, D’Arcangelo says. “I’d rather every boater have an EPIRB than a PLB,” he says.

EPIRBs cost more than PLBs—$400 to $550 compared with $290 to $350—and they’re registered to a vessel. PLBs are registered to a person, and should be worn by that person. EPIRBs should be mounted to the vessel where they can be easily accessed. Those that come with a release bracket float free if a vessel begins to submerge; they will automatically send a distress signal.

“I always advise boaters to activate their properly configured and registered DSC VHF any time they’re going to activate their EPIRB,” says Paul Barnard, USCG Recreational Boating Safety Specialist. “A boat three miles away might get the DSC alert and assist immediately where Coast Guard assistance could be an hour or more away, if the EPIRB alone is activated.”

An MOB device is worn by crewmembers. If someone falls overboard, the device sends a signal to a phone or tablet onboard. In some cases, the system can be set to activate the boat’s kill switch so the crewmember can swim back to the boat. An AIS MOB device sends an alert message to all local vessels equipped with AIS.

Multifunction Devices

A SEND unit—such as Garmin’s inReach or Globalstar’s SPOT models—costs $150 to $650 and emits an SOS message via satellite to GEOS, a private search and rescue agency, which is tapped into the Iridium satellite system. Many SEND models now offer two-way messaging so that the victim and rescuers stay in touch.

Those units also offer a wide variety of services including preset messaging, so you can alert a loved one when you have left the dock and when you have returned, for instance. However, SEND units require a monthly subscription fee ($11.95 to $64.65); beacons do not.

Garmin’s inReach Mini also connects to a Garmin plotter or a quatix watch. The company’s new 86sci handheld GPS comes with embedded nautical charts as well as inReach capabilities.

“From the time of the incident, after you’ve pressed and held SOS, the unit sends your location every minute for 10 minutes,” says Chip Noble, inReach product manager. “When they receive it, within minutes, search and rescue responds to that user. The inReach allows two-way delivery confirmation.”

Read Next: Fish Safely with Redundant Electronic Safety Gear

Depending upon the model, battery life ranges from 35 to 90 hours; the units are rechargeable and they alert users when battery life has dropped to 25 percent.

The bottom line: The marine-electronics industry has a device for your boat and your fishing habits. All you have to do is invest in your safety.

The post Safety Electronics You Need for Your Boat appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

ACR Electronics has introduced its next-­generation personal locater beacons: ResQLink View and ResQLink 400. The company incorporated feedback from emergency survivors, which altered the design and enhanced functionality. The View version includes a digital display that can show all of the beacon’s operations, including GPS coordinates, operating instructions, usage tips, transmission bursts and battery power. Both include an ultrabright strobe light, in addition to a new infrared strobe to assist crews using night-vision goggles. The PLBs can operate for more than 24 hours and weigh just 5.3 ounces. They measure 4.52 inches long, and cost $299.99 (400) and $349.99 (View).

The post ACR ResQLink View/400 appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Today — April 6 — is designated 406Day, according to ACR Electronics, a Florida company that makes emergency position indicating radio beacons (EPIRBs) and personal location or locator beacons (PLBs). Today, the company joins forces with a growing number of supporters and boating-safety partners to raise awareness about these 406 MHz emergency devices in this sixth annual observance.

The company, and its brands Ocean Signal and ARTEX, ask social-media posters to include #406Day18 when posting to share advice and experiences and to thank rescue authorities of to celebrate a life saved.

“406Day has grown from a photo share contest to being a real community builder in the industry,” says Nichole Kalil, ACR Electronics public affairs and media manager. “I look forward to seeing this concept grow in the Outdoors and Aviation industries as 406 technology is just as pertinent for their safety needs.”

EPIRBs, PLBs and ELTs (Emergency Locator Transmitters for aviation) operate on a frequency of 406 MHz and transmit a unique digital code that identifies it and allows registration data about the vessel/craft and its owner to be associated with the device. ACR offers the following advice to beacon owners:

• Check the battery expiration date.
• Update your beacon registration.
• Ensure your beacon is properly mounted.
• Test your beacon.

Florida boat owners are reminded that they qualify for the Beacon Bill discount.

For more information, check out the SurvivorClub and ACR’s website.

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Human personalities might be quantifiable as Type A or Type B. But in the marine world, I’ve seen two different kinds of boaters: Type D and Type P.

Type D for denial: “No emergency will ever befall me. I’ve got everything under control.”

Type P for paranoia: “I can’t go out in 2- to 4-foot seas! Let’s wait till summer, when it’s calm.”

I hope most of us don’t exhibit those extremes. But chances are, we each lean one way or the other. I’m a little closer to a P than a D, meaning I believe in preparing, and I believe in backups — in the form of electronic safety gear, such as VHF radios, EPIRBs, PLBs, AIS SARTs, sat phones, satellite emergency notification devices and single-sideband radios.

Primary Marine Safety Gear

I own a 22-foot bay boat, so I don’t venture into rough seas. But I also fish aboard a variety of other vessels that might or might not be fully equipped. I carry a personal locator beacon (PLB) and wear it on my belt. Sometimes I’ve been known to carry a spare handheld VHF. Remember, I’m kind of a Type (almost) P.

Smaller vessels that stay within sight of shore, including kayaks and paddleboards, must obey the U.S. Coast Guard rules as well as those of their individual states when it comes to life jackets, flares and other signaling devices. But to my knowledge, none of those regulations stipulates any electronic-gear requirements for recreational boaters.

The U.S. Coast Guard does help educate boaters about proper use of ­electronics, including how to test a VHF’s digital-selective-calling (DSC) feature and how to make an actual distress call. Tom Dardis, Coast Guard recreational boating safety outreach coordinator, says boaters should always consider their ability to communicate with other boats and their ability to activate a come-and-help-me scenario.

“We’d always recommend that you carry some type of communication, such as a DSC VHF radio,” Dardis says. “A DSC VHF would be first. A PLB or EPIRB would be secondary. A sat phone could be secondary or tertiary. Having redundant systems is good if you can afford it.”

Vessels too small to mount a stationary VHF should at least be equipped with a handheld VHF. All maritime radios must be DSC-enabled by law (as of 1999). DSC is a kind of paging system that transmits your position and vessel information to emergency personnel.

Fixed-mount radios can transmit up to 20 miles, though that’s dependent upon VHF antenna height. Handhelds can transmit up to 8 miles.

Cellphones do not substitute for VHF communication. Cellphone range is limited and sporadic, and you can’t directly connect to the maritime rescue system. That can mean the difference between rescue and tragedy.

EPIRB Options

Many small-boat owners stop at just a proper VHF. But some industry leaders say that’s not enough. “I’m not at all flexible regarding a beacon,” says Nichole Kalil, public relations spokesperson for ACR Electronics. Kalil points out that prices on ACR’s EPIRBs have come down; a GlobalFix V4 costs $350. “Recreational boaters are willing to spend $500 on a cooler but not $350 to keep their family safe?”

A vessel’s size will mandate the type of EPIRB bracket to buy and its location on board. An EPIRB should always be mounted within arm’s reach, and never belowdecks or inside a console.

One key factor to remember, says Dardis: An EPIRB is for the vessel; a PLB is for a person. “If you’re going with PLBs and you have four people aboard, you should have four PLBs,” he says.

A PLB — available with or without GPS (the latter provides better accuracy to rescuers) — should be worn on your person if you expect it to summon help. If it’s in a gear bag that sinks with the vessel, it’s an expensive paperweight. Some life-jacket makers now sew in PLB pouches, and some PLBs come with hook-and-loop fasteners to attach to a belt or strap.

Electronic Safety Gear Deployment

A PLB — available with or without GPS (the latter provides better accuracy to rescuers) — should be worn on your person if you expect it to summon help. If it’s in a gear bag that sinks with the vessel, it’s an expensive paperweight. Some life-jacket makers now sew in PLB pouches, and some PLBs come with hook-and-loop fasteners to attach to a belt or strap.

PLBs must be manually deployed, but some EPIRBs can automatically deploy. Top-of-the-line EPIRBs, such as the GlobalFix iPro, come with a digital face so users can visually verify that it’s testing or transmitting. The unit also displays latitude and longitude.

AIS SARTs (search and rescue transponders) remain popular on the sailing circuit, where crew members face the frequent risk of falling overboard. The SART emits a signal recognized by the AIS unit aboard the crew member’s own boat and aboard any other AIS-equipped vessels nearby. But that’s a local approach to rescue rather than a global one.

Satellite Safety at Sea

Satellite phones have come a long way, and their prices continue to drop as more and more companies launch satellites to compete in this global market. Some say sat phones render single-sideband radio obsolete. But SSB users argue that their technology allows multiple people to hear any given transmission. Single-sidebands do require users to procure some permits and licenses, however.

With regard to safety, a sat phone should really be considered a global cellphone on steroids. Most provide some form of SOS system, though it might not link directly and most ­efficiently to maritime responders.

SENDs — satellite emergency ­notification devices, also called satellite messengers — include products such as Globalstar’s Spot and Garmin’s inReach Explorer+. These units provide a wide variety of services, from social-media posting to location tracking and text messaging.

Users can also request emergency help through a SEND. Responders come from a private organization rather than through the international government system used by EPIRBs and PLBs. These SEND units generally cost very little but require a monthly or yearly ­subscription, based on features.

Whatever electronic gear you decide works best for your boat and fishing needs, don’t scrimp. With regard to safety, I take a no-chance policy. To me, every safety measure needs a backup. But then again, I’m getting closer all the time to a Type P boater.

The post Fish Safely with Redundant Electronic Safety Gear appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

While anglers might not bother wearing a killswitch cord that tethers them to the helm, many might opt to carry a key fob or wear a ­wristband that wirelessly stops a moving boat in an emergency. The Fell Marine MOB+ Basepack connects to a boat’s battery and existing killswitch, mounts to the instrument panel, and pairs with as many as 20 fobs or bands. Fall overboard or hit the alarm, and the engine shuts down. The engine can be restarted after six seconds. The Basepack costs $199; fobs cost $39.99 each; and bands, which come in five colors, cost $19.99 each.

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This safety alert reminds all inflatable life jacket users of the importance of performing periodic maintenance on their equipment. Instances of fatal accidents where inflatable life jackets failed to properly inflate have been documented.

When a life jacket fails to inflate properly, the results can be life threatening. Unknown bladder leaks may exist, fabric degradation or an improperly installed CO2 cylinder is all it takes to render an inflatable life jacket ineffective by preventing its inflation or ability to stay inflated.

Various manufacturers of inflatable equipment will likely have different maintenance instructions for their products and directions for the user to service and inspect the devices. Knowing and following the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions are critical. Proper maintenance service and inspection will ensure all parts of the life jacket including the bladder, inflation mechanism and CO2 cylinder are checked and in good working order.

The Coast Guard highly recommends routine maintenance, service, and inspection in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

The following inflatable life jacket inspection guidance is for informational purposes only and does not supersede any manufacturer recommendations or instruction.

Each voyage, prior to getting underway

• If there is a service indicator check it to ensure it is green. If the service indicator is red the mechanism has been fired or is incorrectly fitted.
• Check for visible signs of wear or damage by ensuring that there are no rips, tears or holes; that the seams are securely sewn; and that the fabric, straps and hardware are still strong.
• For auto-inflating life jackets, ensure all auto components are armed and not expired. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, reveal the inflation system and oral inflation tube. Check that the CO2 cylinder is firmly secured. Examine it for rust or corrosion. If you remove the CO2 cylinder for inspection, be sure to carefully replace it without over-tightening.
• Repack the lifejacket as per manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure the pull-tab lanyard is accessible and unlikely to be caught when being worn.

Periodic checks as recommended by the manufacturer or when in doubt

• Inflate the bladder using the oral tube and leave it overnight in a room with a constant temperature. If the bladder loses pressure, take the lifejacket to an authorized service center for further tests. Do not attempt to repair a life jacket yourself. If there is no obvious loss of pressure, deflate the life jacket by turning the cap of the inflation tube upside down and pressing it into the inflation tube. Gently squeeze the inflatable life jacket until all air has been expelled. To avoid damage do not wring or twist the life jacket.
• Repack the lifejacket as per manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure the pull-tab lanyard is accessible and unlikely to be inadvertently snagged when being worn.

Store your life jacket in a dry, well ventilated location away from dampness and out of direct sunlight. It’s important to rinse your life jacket with fresh water after salt water exposure and dry it thoroughly prior to storage. If your life jacket is set for auto-inflation, remove the auto-inflation cartridge prior to rinsing. The life jacket manufacturer may have specific requirements, so read the instructions on the lifejacket.

This safety alert is provided for informational purpose only and does not relieve any domestic or international safety, operational, or material requirements. Developed by the Office of Auxiliary and Boating Safety and the Office of Investigations and Casualty Analysis. Questions or comments may be sent to HQS-PF-fldr-CG-INV@uscg.mil.

The post Life-Jacket Tips That Could Save Your Life appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

I have firsthand experience with onboard fire. Nearly 35 years ago, aboard my first boat, a rotting fuel hose leaked raw pre-mix into the motor pan of an aging two-stroke outboard. I had no idea that the space under the cowl had become a bomb.

With a flick of the ­ignition key, the fumes exploded, ejecting the hood and spewing flaming gas into the splashwell and aft cockpit. A lone fire extinguisher mounted aside the center console represented my only salvation. The ensuing moments sped by in a blur as I unbracketed the extinguisher, raced aft, pulled the pin and doused the flames.

The charred deck lay caked in fire-suppressing powder, and the day of fishing was over, but I felt a shaky sense of relief at having averted a major ­catastrophe or, worse, an injury. I am glad to say that today’s outboards rarely cause such issues, but fire dangers still exist on boats. Fire ranked No. 5 among BoatU.S. insurance claims between 2008 and 2012, based on total dollar amounts. But fire incidents represented only 2.5 percent of all claims during that time period.

Threat levels tend to increase with the age of the craft. That’s why it’s important to inspect onboard systems and fire-safety equipment frequently, and National Safe Boating Week (May 21-27 in 2016) is a good time to start. Use these tips to stave off fire.

[1] Follow Your Nose.

The human nose is one of the best fire-prevention tools. If ­something does not smell right — from the fumes of raw gasoline to the acrid whiff of an overheating electrical cable — check it out immediately.

A few years ago on an ­offshore trip, I picked up an odd smell. I lifted the bilge hatch and grabbed the positive cable leading from the battery to the selector switch. The cable seared my hand, so I switched over to the second battery. When I got back from fishing that day, I discovered that corrosion had eaten at the wires, causing the cable to draw excessive amps and grow hot. It was only a matter of time before it would have erupted in flames. I thank my nose for ­saving the day.

[2] Check the Tank and Hoses.

Gas fumes can result in disastrous onboard explosions and fires. Fortunately, these are rare, particularly on new boats. Yet you should never take fire safety for granted. Give your fuel tank and all hoses and connections a thorough inspection every six months, or ask a qualified marine technician to do so.

On older boats, ethanol-laced ­gasoline can eat away at hoses, causing them to delaminate and seep gas. Make sure you replace aging hoses with U.S. Coast Guard-approved ethanol-rated hoses, and double-clamp all connections with stainless-steel hose clamps.

Aging metal fuel tanks are prone to corrosion that results in leaks. The original aluminum tank in my current boat, for example, was surrounded by foam flotation material, and water tended to collect between the foam and metal. This led to the development of pinholes due to corrosion and eventual replacement of the tank. The lesson here: Schedule regular checks of the fuel system.

[3] Use Fuses and Breakers.

After my experience with an overheated electrical cable, I have become a nut about adding fuses and breakers. These serve as your silent guardians, ready to sacrifice themselves or to trip and prevent a hot wire from starting a fire. Use the size of fuse or breaker specified by the manufacturer for each accessory.

A recent experience reinforced this precept in my mind. The anchor windlass on my boat stopped working, and my first step was to check the wiring. I discovered a corroded butt connector.

I put in a new ­connector, but the anchor still didn’t work. So I checked the fuse, and sure enough, it had blown. The corroded connection had caused the windlass to draw excessive amps, blowing the fuse. This cut the circuit and prevented a fire. A new fuse got the windlass working again after repairs.

[4] Fix Corroded Connections.

Corrosion is a fact of life on saltwater fishing boats, but as indicated earlier, it is also a fire-safety issue. Every six months, go through your electrical system (or ask a professional to do so) and look for corroded connections, terminals and wires. Replace any components that show the slightest sign of corrosion, because unlike wine, corrosion does not improve with age. It only gets worse.

[5] Limit External Heat.

Fire needs three elements to exist: oxygen, fuel and heat. It’s hard to escape oxygen; it’s in the air. Fuel can be anything from gasoline and teakwood to fiberglass and plastic. About the only thing you can control on board are external heat sources such as cigarettes. That’s why I don’t allow smoking on my boat.

Also keep a careful eye on cooking appliances such as propane barbecues or electric grills. Watch out for grease fires, which can quickly spread to ­canvas enclosures and boat upholstery. I like to have a fire extinguisher ­standing by while cooking on board.

Avoid onboard heaters of any kind, be they electric, propane or alcohol. Better that you wrap up in a warm sleeping bag than risk a fire from such an external heat source.

[6] Install Access Ports.

Newer boats feature hatches to access electrical panels and other enclosed spaces, allowing you to shoot the area with an extinguisher should a fire start. Yet many older boats require tools to remove panels for access to enclosed areas.

Time is of the essence when fighting a fire, so I installed hatches and Marine East Fire-Ports in the enclosures on my older boat. These let me shoot a fire extinguisher behind panels without taking time to remove them.

[7] Carry More Extinguishers.

Federal regulations call for one USCG-approved Type B-I hand-held fire extinguisher for boats under 26 feet in length; two B-I or one B-II for boats 26 to 40 feet in length; and three B-I or one B-I and one B-II for boats over 40 feet. The rules vary if there is a fixed fire-suppression system on the boat. Check out the requirements at uscg​boating.org.

In addition, the Coast Guard ­recommends that you inspect fire extinguishers monthly to make sure that the seals and tamper indicators are not broken, pressure gauges read in the operable range, and the nozzle is not clogged or leaking. If anything looks bad, have the extinguisher replaced or recharged. Shake the tank every month to keep the suppressant from caking at the bottom.

As with love, money and live bait, I believe you cannot have too many extinguishers. Though the regulations require one extinguisher on my 22-footer, I have two: one accessible from the helm and one in the cabin. Just as when my boat caught fire 35 years ago, a fire extinguisher might be your only salvation. If it comes to that, I’ll double down.

The post Seven Tips for Preventing and Fighting Boat Fires appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

ThrowRaft says its TD2401 is the world’s first Type IV inflatable throwable flotation device on the market, and it has gained U.S. Coast Guard approval. The re-packable device measures 11 by 14 inches and can be thrown like a square cushion, ring or horseshoe buoy. It can be manually activated to inflate and will auto-inflate when submerged. Deployed, it has a minimum buoyancy of 20 pounds. The yellow cushion fits into an orange pouch with a 24-gram carbon-dioxide cylinder. The TD2401 costs $129.99.

The post ThrowRaft Type IV Inflatable Throwable Flotation Device appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.