What is the minimum size boat for offshore fishing? The answer depends on who you ask. The challenge and your budget are the two biggest reasons for fishing from a small offshore boat. Many cite the unique satisfaction of taking on the ocean to fish it on their own terms, knowing they have the boat, the knowledge and the ability to get out there, catch some good fish and get back.

“There’s definitely the excitement of being out there in a small boat where you’re in control and doing your own thing,” said Angelo Cuanang, a West Coast offshore fishing writer and expert who regularly fishes off San Francisco Bay. He’s done so for many years — all in a 17-foot Boston Whaler Montauk. Being unsinkable, the Whaler is one of the best small boats for ocean fishing.

One school of thought from skilled mariners actually considers a smaller hull advantageous in large swells. Tom King, once a professional mate in Massachusetts, for years made the 20-plus-mile run to fish Stellwagen Bank aboard his 19-foot Midland (“a Nova Scotia-style hull,” he said, with a very high bow and very low freeboard). “We came home riding on top of the big seas like an eggshell, while much bigger sport-fishing boats were having a tough time rolling in the swells.”

For purposes of this discussion, let’s focus on saltwater fishing boats with a minimum size ranging from 17 to 22 feet in length overall (LOA). A boat this size has an element of responsiveness that much larger hulls lose. In addition to being a criterion for offshore fishing, this size range also offers the best small boats for rough seas. Of course, rough seas are relative, and distance from shore often dictates the decision to go or not go.

Offshore Boating Benefits of Small Fishing Boats

Besides the challenge, downsized boats are less expensive and easy to tow on the road than king-size boats. Small boats can also be easier to handle and dock in tight quarters, though features such as joystick controls on larger boats are making low-speed maneuvers easier for skippers of large boats.

Start comparing costs of purchase, insurance, moorage or storage, maintenance and so on for a 30-foot center-console with those of a 22-footer. Then of course there are fuel costs. At today’s prices, a day fishing a 30-footer with twin 300 hp outboards can cost you in the high hundreds of dollars, if not more than $1,000. But you can run offshore and troll all day in a boat such as the Robalo R222 (21 feet 6 inches LOA) or Sea Chaser 22 HFC (21 feet 9 inches LOA) with a single 200 or 250 hp outboard for a few hundred or less.

Lots of anglers trailer their boats 50 to 100 miles at the drop of a hat. Compare hauling a double- or triple-axle trailer behind a ¾- to 1-ton pickup versus a lighter, single- or double-axle trailer behind a half-ton pickup — and there’s even more economy.

Small-Boat Knowledge, Ability and Common Sense

There’s no federal regulation stating that “Thou shalt not take thy boat and go (offshore),” and in fact the Coast Guard only has authority in a few places to prevent boaters from going where they want, a Coast Guard spokesman said. To go or not to go is not the question. Rather, focus on knowing your small boat, recognizing when to go or not, and with what gear and preparation.

Accident reports often retell scenarios where anglers in small boats perished before the Coast Guard could reach them. Often these are cases where knowing the boat and having the right equipment could have saved lives. Experience often makes a major difference when it comes to safety. Anglers who know what the ocean can dish out and respect that power choose to err on the side of caution, and do not scrimp on safety gear.

Many who skipper such mighty mites far from land tend to be independent by nature. Still, many make it a point to travel offshore with another boat — known as “buddy boating”— when possible, small or large, which in effect offers a second engine.

Whether or not you have a buddy going with you, be sure to file a float plan before you leave. That can be as simple as making sure someone back on land knows when you plan to depart and return, and where — in general — you expect to fish.

The Right Boat: Moderate Vees and Hard Chines

What is the best small boat for offshore fishing? There are plenty of 17- to 22-footers for fishing bays, channels or flats. But if you plan to run offshore, you’ll need to investigate construction, quality and design.

That said, some bay boats such as the Pathfinder 2200 TE (22 feet 2 inches LOA) or Sea Born FX22 Bay Sport (21 foot 9 inches LOA) offer offshore fishing capability, as well as the ability to sneak into shallow inshore waters.

Still, there can be no doubt that with the specialized demands of offshore fishing, not all small hulls are created equal. When it comes to hull design, opinions vary — suggesting competent small hulls might come in more than one style.

A modified V rather than the deep V common on larger center consoles ranks as the top choice among experts looking for the optimal small planing hull for big water. While the steeper deadrise angle of up to 26 degrees at the transom offers the softest ride through waves, an angle in the 17- to 20-degree range proves more stable. That way you still get some damping effect from the V but also get some benefit of lateral stability.

Fuel capacity becomes a serious consideration for any small boat heading offshore. On the minus side: Many small boats have built-in tanks and some provide space only for portables. On the plus side: Light boats with small outboards can go all day on amazingly little fuel. Once you pick a boat, know its range and always allow for at least a 15 percent reserve.

A small but important point: marine battery placement. Batteries should ride forward, beneath the console, rather than at the transom, where they can get wet and add unnecessary weight.

One other essential element of small boat construction that becomes particularly important offshore is flotation. Positive flotation is required for certification by the National Marine Manufacturers Association in boats less than 20 feet, but the best hulls are fully filled with foam, and the reasons should be obvious. In an emergency, water can force air out of a hull or sides but not out of foam. A light hull gains little weight (always a factor) but considerable strength and rigidity from foam.

Water In, Water Out

A small boat easily takes on spray and, on rough days, some green water as well. That’s when scuppers become critical. (This assumes that no angler without a death wish would be offshore in a boat that’s not self-bailing.) The scuppers must be able to drain water as fast as it comes into the hull — if not, you’ll soon be playing submarine.

Transom height and design also play key roles in keeping water out of small boats. A small outboard-powered boat faces trouble fast once enough ocean water enters and runs to one side or the other in heavy seas. To help avoid that, look for small offshore boats with a full transom. A cut-out transom might work with a really good, generous motorwell. Worst case for offshore: a low, cut-out transom with no well. If that describes your boat, stick to the bay.

The Right Offshore Boating Equipment

No small boat, however seaworthy and stable, belongs offshore — ever — if it’s not properly equipped. The most major piece of equipment to consider is your outboard engine. A traditional preference among blue-water anglers has been twin or even triple outboards for safety. However, adding a second engine for the small boater might be either cost-, design- or weight-prohibitive. Fortunately, today’s outboard engines are more reliable than ever.

When feasible, a small auxiliary engine (aka kicker) is a great addition since it can get you home in a pinch — but, again, it may not be worth the additional weight on the stern of a 17- to 22-footer.

Additional key safety equipment to carry when fishing offshore includes the following:

Fixed-Mount VHF Radio — Fundamental and essential. Fixed-mount radios offer a range of 15 to 20 miles while handhelds only reach out 3 to 8 miles. All new VHFs, by law, come with Digital Selective Calling, which instantly sends a distress call to authorities anywhere in the world. Be sure that you set up your DSC calling feature before leaving port. Cell phones are popular everywhere, including offshore, and offer some backup. But these can’t substitute for a VHF in a pinch since users might not find coverage in all areas offshore, and a phone call does not immediately summon on-water help. Mate your VHF radio to a tall (8-foot) VHF antenna for the range necessary when fishing offshore.

GPS Plotter/Sounder — As critical for navigation as for fishing. Separate units are fine, but a single unit (capable of showing both chart plotter and sounder reading on screen simultaneously) maximizes limited space on small consoles.

Compass — With a good nautical chart, a compass will keep you headed in the right direction if your GPS fails. Amazingly, some small boaters venture far offshore with neither radio nor compass, according to the Coast Guard.

Extra Battery — Any boat fishing offshore should have a dual-battery system with a selector switch. This allows you to keep one battery in reserve in case one goes dead.

Emergency Beacons — An EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicator Radio Beacon) and a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) are good ideas for any boat fishing offshore. Once activated, an encoded digital message is received by satellites, and is then transmitted back to ground-based search and rescue authorities. This signal provides information to assist in the search. Assuming you have properly registered the EPIRB or PLB, it tells rescuers who you are, your boat type and size, where you are, and other important data, including emergency contact information. An EPIRB is registered to the boat and is usually mounted on deck, while a PLB is registered to an individual and is carried by that person.

Life Jackets — Going offshore without them would not only be illegal but insane. Make sure your jackets are Coast Guard rated for offshore use (Type I). It is a good idea to wear a life jacket at all times, especially if fishing alone.

Emergency Kit — including flare gun and flares, cyalume sticks and waterproof strobe lights. (I also make sure my boat’s running lights are in good working order.) Don’t forget a good flashlight and extra sunscreen.

Emergency Food and Water — At least a half-gallon of water, some granola bars and beef jerky or canned meat can get you through a day or two.

Anchor and Lots of Line — Even if you don’t anchor to fish, you might find an anchor valuable, and plenty of heavy line is a must if you need to be towed.

Sea Anchor — Space might preclude stowing a small sea anchor, but make sure you have at least a bucket or, in a pinch, even a spare life jacket. Most boats tend to drift stern-to — the worst situation in a building sea. Your odds of staying afloat when broken down and adrift go up by a big chunk if you can keep the bow into the waves, and any sort of sea anchor will help accomplish this.

Pick the Right Fishing Weather

Given a seaworthy boat, properly equipped, everything else comes down to common sense. And nowhere can the small boater better demonstrate that than by reading the weather before and during a trip.

Starting out the morning in a 3-foot sea is a mere irritant to a 30-footer, but for the mini-boater who has his head screwed on right, it means a canceled trip. Many mornings I’ve arisen to find the weather service data revised from the previous evening’s 5- to 10-knot wind forecast to one of 10 to 20 knots. Anyone hoping to go offshore in a 17- to 22-footer has to realize his fishing days will be limited.

Look for periods between frontal systems, particularly in fall, winter and spring when dead-calm days sneak in between blows. During the summer, high pressure systems often bring many successive days of calm weather, particularly in the morning. The run home in many regions might mean a moderate but manageable chop, thanks to afternoon sea breezes.

Just be sure you know the marine forecast for the day, before you head out. When the forecast calls for light breezes all day and into the night, boating anglers with small boats can usually venture forth into offshore ocean waters with peace of mind. Otherwise, the best rule of thumb is a simple one: When in doubt, don’t go out.

The post Small Boats for Offshore Fishing appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

What’s good fuel economy for a fishing boat? That’s a loaded question, because just what constitutes “good” is open to debate. If you’re talking about a 65-foot sportfish that weighs 100,000 pounds and blasts across the ocean at 30 knots with 4,000 diesel horses churning in the engine room, a third of a mile to the gallon isn’t bad. At the opposite end of the spectrum, a jon boat with a 15 hp four-stroke outboard and a light load can top 10 mpg. Or you could go even farther afield and note that there are plenty of kayaks that qualify as fishing boats and make three or four mph while burning only calories.

Comparison Standards

When judging a boat’s fuel economy, the best way to go about it is to compare boats of the same size. This is no easy feat. Boats aren’t standardized. For example, if two models have an identical length, they may well have different beams, and different horsepower with different brand engines. Then, there are environmental factors to consider. Was a boat’s fuel efficiency measured on flat calm waters, choppy seas, or in a maelstrom? How strong a current was running, and was the boat going with, against, or across it? The difference in that very same boat’s fuel economy can vary dramatically from one day to the next.

Usage Factors

Now let’s talk about just what all these boats are doing. Efficiency at idle is very different from efficiency at cruise, which is yet again different from efficiency at wide-open throttle. Some boats offer great economy while going slow, but poor economy while going fast. Others are the diametric opposite. So, where in the rpm range and speed band do you plan to compare them? This depends on how you use and run your boat the bulk of the time.

Considering all these factors, it’s clear that we have to recognize from the outset that assessing a boat’s fuel efficiency is often comparing apples to oranges with a few bananas and maybe a plum or two in the mix. Still, we can look at a broad swath of boats and make a few basic assertions.

Category Examples

A comparison of five 18-foot center consoles rigged with 115 hp outboards and running at approximately 30 mph is illuminating. At the top of the cruising efficiency range, one gets 5.7 mpg, and at the bottom, another gets 4.2 mpg. The average for all of these rigs is 5.0 mpg. However, is that gas-hog getting 0.8 mpg below average? Not necessarily, because it also has the most efficient slow pace, getting 8.8 mpg at around five mph while the other boats averaged 7.7 mpg. So, which of those boats gets good fuel economy? Well, are you cruising or are you trolling?

Now let’s jump up the scale to 25-footers running at 30 mph on a single 300 hp outboard. The range tightens, with the best economy checking in at 3.5 mpg and the lowest at 3.0; the average sits at 3.2. Once again, for whatever reason the boat with the lowest cruising mpg scores the highest slow speed efficiency, but by a much lower margin (4.6 mpg versus an average of 4.5).

Running With the Big Dogs

Up we go again, this time to 30-foot twin-engine rigs with pairs of 300 hp outboards. The spread shrinks even more at 30 mph, from 1.5 to 1.8 mpg with a 1.7 average. Idling along at trolling speed, fuel economy is no more than 0.3 mpg apart. And at wide-open, no more than 0.2 mpg apart.

So, what can we tell from these results? The bigger the boat gets, the less of a difference you’ll see in fuel economy between different rigs. If you’re shopping for an 18-footer, fuel economy is worth some consideration, but if you’re shopping for a 30-plus footer, less so.

Notable Exceptions

Except that there are exceptions. What happens when we introduce a multi-hull boat (aka power cat) into the mix of 30-footers? The cat ekes out a win over the top V-hull, with 1.9 mpg. What about throwing in a twin-stepped hull into the mix? Best efficiency at 30 mph jumps up to 2.1 mpg.

Of course, power cats and stepped hulls have their own quirks and peculiarities. Remember: apples, oranges, bananas, and plums. When it comes to fishing boats, it’s pretty darn tough to determine exactly what “good fuel economy” means. Which brings us back to those fishing kayaks. Because considering how poor the fuel economy of boats in general can be, we’re thinking you just can’t beat five miles to the turkey-and-cheese sandwich.

The post What’s Good Fuel Economy for a Fishing Boat? appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Yamaha has released a new 350-hp outboard that promises big power in a lightweight container. To get even more ponies out of the company’s popular V6 block, Yamaha engineers harnessed a variety of technologies that make the new powerplant more powerful, efficient, and easy to use.

The F350 has a slightly longer stroke than the F300, squeezing 4.3 liters of displacement out of the block. Yamaha designed a new camshaft to get the extra travel out of the pistons, which provides more torque at lower speeds. One takeaway here is greater hole shot potential. Despite the added power, the compression ratio is 11:1 which should allow the motor live a long life.

Larger intake and exhaust valves contribute to the added power, letting the motor breath more freely. Yamaha says the intake manifolds offer 40 percent larger surge tanks than the F300, and the electronic throttle valve is 8 percent larger, which enhances airflow through the motor. Iridium spark plugs were utilized for more efficient spark, adding to the power equation. New fuel injection control mapping, which produces a longer injector duration than the F300, completes the air + fuel + spark equation and results in more power.

Yamaha’s sleeveless, plasma-fused cylinder technology reduces friction and enhances heat distribution. Oil cooler capacity was increased from the F300 to keep everything running smoothly. To protect the outboard, Yamaha incorporated the same water sensor found on the XTO 450 for overheat control.

A redesigned cowling includes an air duct designed to drain any water that might make its way in. Plus, the new cowling exhaust port, combined with a new stator fan, keeps everything under the hood cool. Speaking of stators, Yamaha says the electrical power output on the F350 is also enhanced. This should allow anglers to recharge batteries even at lower RPMs, so accessories and trolling motors should stay strong all day long.

Added power was necessary in the lower unit, so Yamaha came up with a beefier model that can handle the added torque. Despite the stronger internals, they were able to keep the exterior dimensions the same as others in the company’s line. Of note is the new Thrust Enhancing Reverse Exhaust that provides more response when backing down. In this system, the exhaust is directed away from the prop to provide clean water so the blades get more bite.

Control of the motor is effortless, thanks to Yamaha’s Digital Electric Steering (DES). Used in concert with Helm Master EX boat control system, the F350’s DES provides cleaner rigging and more room in the bilge, according to Yamaha. The F350 also incorporates the same TotalTilt technology used throughout Helm Master EX capable DEC outboards.

The F350 is available in 25-, 30- and 35-inch shaft lengths. The 25-inch shaft version of the F350 weighs 629 pounds; 642 pounds for the 30-inch; and 653 pounds for the 35-inch model. The bigger gear case uses the same propellers as the F300. The new outboard is offered in Yamaha’s pearlescent white, traditional gray, or the new classic white.

“Boaters asked for it, and we delivered,” said Ben Speciale, president of the Yamaha U.S. Marine Business Unit. “The F350 is the perfect big power, light-weight option for a wide variety of applications.”

The Yamaha F350 will be available in Spring of 2024. To learn more, visit yamahaoutboards.com.

The post Yamaha Releases New 350 Horsepower Outboard appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

I remember when a run to the offshore fishing grounds went something like this: Get to the boat the night before to load up. Then settle in for a long, slow chug through the inky darkness. After eight or 10 hours of creeping along and taking turns at the helm, a faint horizon would materialize along the hem of the purple-gray sky, and our fishing day would officially begin.

Today, a new breed of high-speed fishing boat has created a new paradigm for serious offshore anglers. Owners of these powerful machines are likely to hop on board in the morning, fire up the four or five high-performance outboards sitting across the ample transom, and motor out of the harbor to the oohs and aahs of onlookers and envious anglers.

When the captain reaches open water and opens the throttles on up to 3,000 hp of outboard power, the true appeal of these speed machines becomes apparent. With a jaw-dropping amount of power, high-tech hulls rocket to offshore destinations in a fraction of the time required in yesteryears. Now running 100 miles or more, catching a load of fish, and returning home on the same day is not only possible but common. 

Fishing-boat brands such as Contender, Invincible, Regulator, Scout, SeaVee, Yellowfin and others have broken the mold on what a center-console outboard-powered fishing boat can achieve, blasting through size and performance barriers. This new crop of boats offers the dimensions and seaworthiness of old-fashioned sport-fishing yachts but can also reach 60 mph and cruise all day at 40 to 50 mph without breaking a sweat. And they do this with surprisingly good fuel economy, providing the range to go long and fish hard all day.

However, there’s a lot more to this new class of boats than just size and speed. Boatbuilders are competing to introduce more-comfortable and -capable offshore machines, adding new features, interior comfort, and amenities without compromising the open layout and unfettered fishing access that define the breed. Owners are attracted by these vessels’ versatility as well. Though supersize, a center-console is still a center-console. If the mood strikes, owners can still pull up on a sandbar with everybody else, kick back with a drink, and enjoy the party with their smaller cousins.

When you first see one of these sleek and stylish boats, your eyes are drawn to the gleaming engine cowlings that seemingly fill every inch of transom space. It’s clear that the entire class of vessels couldn’t exist without quantum leaps in outboard-motor power and technology from builders such as Yamaha. There are different theories about which came first, the growing number of high-­powered outboards or the ever-larger hulls designed for outboard power. Conventional wisdom is that the evolution of more-powerful outboards led to the development of wider, longer and more-advanced hulls. However, there are also those who believe that evolving consumer demand for simplicity and ease of use was simultaneously pushing builders to redefine the center-console and walkaround fishing-boat classes. 

Perhaps we should call it a tie. “The evolution of outboard motors has resulted in even more powerful, reliable and feature-rich powerplants, enabling boat sizes in this popular segment to grow to overall lengths of 40 feet and beyond,” says John Caballero, sales and marketing director for SeaVee Boats. At the same time, he acknowledges an existing preference for simpler boats. “The market discovered long ago how practical a center-­console boat is in terms of its utility and generally lower maintenance requirements.” He highlights the company’s 42-foot 420Z and 45-foot 450Z as ideal models for meeting this need, providing the amenities to enhance the fishing experience and the safety and comfort for all on board. Additionally, both models can be highly customized to suit the owner’s needs and preferences.

“While supersize center-­consoles are by no means simple machines, they are undoubtedly less complex than multi­stateroom sport-fishing yachts,” says Rob Sabin, southeast sales manager for Contender Boats. “This typically translates to lower maintenance bills and less time in the yard. It also gives owners the ability to run and maintain their own vessel.”

Contender considers its 44-foot 44FA (Fisharound) the perfect fishing platform for extended adventures. Built on the center-console 44ST hull, the 44FA features a large berth, enclosed head, and kitchenette. It carries 575 gallons of fuel along with 70 gallons of water, and can be equipped with a generator, AC, ice makers, water heaters and gyrostabilization.

“Boats are getting ­bigger and more powerful, but that’s not all,” says Matt Arnholt, marketing manager for ­Yellowfin Yachts. They have been able to maximize efficiency and fishability while incorporating various features, electronics in particular, ­Arnholt points out. 

While the 36 Offshore continues as Yellowfin’s most popular model, anglers are also turning to the 39 Offshore, 42 Offshore and 54 Offshore, Arnholt observes. The 54 delivers the brand’s styling, stepped hull, fuel efficiency, and construction with features such as a fully equipped galley, queen berth, and diesel generator. Its long list of available options includes a bow thruster, a Quick dynamic stabilizer, and a variety of hardtop and tower possibilities.

“Many of our customers used to own large sport-­fishermen,” says Alan Lang, ­director of sales and ­marketing for Scout Boats, which raised eyebrows across the industry when it previewed its 670 LXF: a 67-foot LOA cross between a center-console and a superyacht due for launch in 2024. “They are ready to move to a center-console for the ease of operation, and the ability to drive it themselves and take care of it themselves. Outboard power not only makes our boats fast and agile, but it also makes maintenance much easier.” Multiple high-horsepower engines also provide owners with peace of mind. According to Lang, Scout’s current flagship—the 530 LXF—will easily get on plane and get you home at 50 mph, even with one engine down. 

“The biggest things driving these supersize center-consoles are high ­horsepower, along with the great weight-to-horsepower ratio,” says Dan Freer, senior director of engineering for Invincible, which offers both monohull and catamaran models. 

Invincible’s 46-foot cat is offered in both a center-­console and pilothouse configuration. Even with the added comforts of two sleeping berths, interior seating, air conditioning and a generator, the 46 Pilothouse stays true to the brand with 360-degree fishability. The new flagship of Invincible’s monohull fleet is the 43 Open Fisherman. While the cockpit layout emphasizes all-around fishing room, the design includes a cabin with a full sleeping berth, a vanity sink and a head for extended angling journeys.   

Builders agree that the trend will continue, even if the overall size of the boats eventually tops out. Consumer demand and outboard-engine development will continue to drive future innovation. What this future will look like is anyone’s guess, but it will certainly be one hell of a ride.

The post Supersize Center-Consoles Expand Angling Horizons appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

After a stint in the U.S. Coast Guard as a small-boat coxswain and marine-fisheries law enforcement officer, Capt. McMurray founded One More Cast Charters. For the better part of the past two decades, he has been chasing tuna off Long Island’s South Shore, priding himself on his ability to catch tuna using spinning gear—there’s no trolling on his boat. Here’s what he looks for in a boat to run-and-gun some of the fastest fish in the ocean.

Deadrise

“Unlike Cape Cod or the Outer Banks, our tuna generally aren’t close, which means 60- to 80-mile runs in sometimes not-so-nice conditions. The more deadrise you have, the more that boat is going to cut through chop and get you there without pounding. But there’s a Catch-22 here: The greater the deadrise, the more the boat is going to rock at rest. Getting to the tuna grounds without beating my crew to a pulp is more important to me than comfort (rocking and rolling) once we’re on the grounds. So I want a boat with a lot of deadrise, like 24 or 25 degrees of it.”

How Much Beam?

“Of course, deck space is good. But again, there are trade-offs here. The bigger and wider boats are heavy, and that makes approaching or running-and-gunning surface-feeding or waking tuna problematic—it’s kind of hard not to put them down when you’re throwing 4 feet of wake. I generally want 9 to 10 feet of beam. Any more than that, it’s kind of a different boat, better suited for trolling.”

How Many Engines?

“Unless you’re fishing within sight of shore, you want more than one motor. My first offshore boat had twin 150s, which I consider the minimum. Twin 300s are optimal in my opinion. Boats with three engines are often able to get on plane with only two working motors, so you won’t have a long slow ride back to the dock.”

Electronics

“I have 2 kW transducers on all of my offshore boats, with chirp. They all tend to read bottom and fish pretty well. Just remember that your sounder reads only what’s directly beneath you, not what’s around you and on the surface—I’ve caught ­plenty of fish when we weren’t marking anything. Still, it’s good to have a solid sounder and transducer, if for no other reason than it increases confidence levels, and lets you know, of course, that there are indeed fish around, even if you might not be catching. 

“Radar is an absolute necessity. Even if you don’t sail because of fog, you can be 60 miles offshore when the fog unexpectedly rolls in. And of course, if you want to be on the tuna grounds by dawn (the magic hours), you’re going to have to run in the dark. And you really need to be able to see stuff before you hit it, or it hits you. Get radar. It might save your life, and mine. 

“Integrating AIS on your chart plotter is important. You can usually do that through a good VHF radio that comes with an AIS ­transponder. That will help you locate commercial ­traffic, specifically trawler fleets. I don’t think it’s a big secret that tunas hold around squid and scallop fleets, eating the bycatch. 

“While it’s not what I’d call a necessity, FLIR or any other sort of night vision is extremely helpful. I use it, along with radar, and a spotlight. I’ve been doing this long enough to understand that you can’t depend on any of the three really, but all three together greatly reduces the odds of hitting something.”

Other Must-Haves

Rod holders. A lot of them. I have 30 to 40 on each boat. While that sounds like a lot, if you’re serious, you need a wide range of popping and jigging rods for all types of conditions and size classes of fish. I’m talking about vertical rod holders that are not in the gunwales. You need to be able to get to rods quickly if all of the sudden you start marking fish, or if a pod of dolphin show, or if tuna pop up. I don’t want anything in the way of casting when those sudden opportunities occur. I keep jig rods vertically along the port and starboard of the center console, and popping rods in the leaning-post rocket launcher. 

“A satellite communicator is a must-have! It allows you to communicate and share intel with your friends and colleagues while underway without blowing up spots on the VHF. And it allows you to communicate with your wife so that she doesn’t call the Coast Guard when you’re 80 miles offshore chasing fish when you were supposed to be home hours ago.”

Creature Comforts

“I don’t know how people fish without bolsters. Sometimes you’re fighting fish for over an hour, and it really helps to be able to lean against a soft bolster. Beanbags are an absolute necessity. They give anglers a place to sleep on the way out and the way back.”

The post Things To Look For in a Jig-and-Pop Boat appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Every small-boat angler knows that it’s tough to achieve the optimal trolling spread. Bigger boats have an obvious edge. Their broader beam, higher freeboard, and greater number of strategically located rod holders enable the deployment and easy management of extra lines. Meanwhile, anglers aboard 25- to 35-footers are always on the lookout for alternate trolling patterns and equipment that will boost their results.

To explore some options, I talked with a tournament captain and veteran anglers from companies such as Tigress, Taco, DuBro, AFTCO and Tournament Cable, which specialize in trolling booms, tridents, release clips, and other aftermarket tools and accessories that you can add to your boat to raise and hook more fish on the troll.

To extend the width of the trolling spread, skippers with a big enough boat (32-plus feet) can use outriggers as long as 24 feet and run two or three lines plus a dredge off each. Smaller boats are limited to 18- to 20-foot riggers, which generally lack the backbone to drag a multitiered dredge. Some opt for towing a dredge from a stern cleat, but Tigress and Tournament Cable offer a better solution: 4-, 6- or 8-foot dredge/teaser booms that let you move the teaser out of the prop wash and into clean water.

Made from aluminum pipe or fiberglass, such booms fit into a gunwale rod holder or attach to a bent-butt section placed in a holder. Some feature a heavy tow line that runs through a pulley at the end of the boom. The Tigress dredge boom can be equipped with an electric reel. All come with safety and stay lines to alleviate strain on both the rod holder and the boom.

A downrigger boom can also pull a dredge or teaser while keeping it away from the hull and the motors. Attach the downrigger ball and you’ll add depth. Some pros advise substituting the downrigger cable with 300- or 400-pound Spectra braid to reduce drag and the ensuing strain on the boom.

Adding a center rigger to the boat’s T-top is another way to expand your spread, and it creates a better presentation for a bait run well behind the transom. It also affords the option to run a second line and place a bait closer to the boat to complete a desirable V-shaped spread coming off the prop wash. Available with bolt-on or clamp-on mounts, these telescoping outrigger-­style poles range from 8 to 16 feet in length and are made from aluminum or carbon fiber.

Though not quite as effective, adding a clamp-on or welded rod holder in the center of the T-top’s aft-facing edge provides similar benefits. Of course, clamp-on rod holders can be mounted at various angles in other areas of the T-top to spread trolling lines, a tactic popularized by kingfish tournament competitors. 

Release clips and simple rubber bands also help add lines and change bait presentations. DuBro’s downrigger release allows you to stack lines at various depths along the downrigger cable or planer tether. 

A release clip can be used to run a flat line from one of the transom eyes to fish a bait close to the water’s surface. Some captains thread a piece of heavy mono through the clip and the transom eye, then crimp it to form a loop. AFTCO sells its Roller Troller, a flat-line clip that takes the rigging out of the equation and features a roller to prevent line chafing.  

With these options, even on a small center-console, you can troll more lines or simply widen your spread for added coverage. But don’t go overboard. The number of lines you can successfully troll depends on more than your boat’s size. Also take into account the size and experience of your crew, the weather, and the presence of floating grass. Pulling four baits effectively beats messing with eight that don’t swim right and lines that constantly tangle. 

The post Boost Trolling Coverage and Success appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

If you’re planning to shop—and possibly plunk down hard-earned money—for a ­­center-console fishing machine this year, consider the following. Here is my must-have list of five features you cannot do without on your new pride and joy.

Enough Power

Whenever I write a ­review for a center-­console with an advertised price that includes a power package that’s inadequate, I add the advice: Don’t do it! Underpowering a center-console is the worst mistake a boat buyer can make. Not only will it struggle to get on plane, but the helmsman will also have a hard time maintaining a safe speed in rough water. You also will get hammered when you trade it in or try to resell it. Go online and find a review of a boat with the engine package you are considering or ask the ­dealer. If the top speed is around 40 mph, it’s a dog. In my experience, the magic minimum top-speed number for most center-consoles today is around 50 mph.

Tall Gunwales

I used to fish with a friend of mine in the Florida Keys who had a popular 25-foot offshore boat that had a rear interior gunwale height of only 22 inches. In seas above 2 feet, my knees were sore as hell by the end of the day from bumping against the side of the boat. And at least once, I felt like I might fall in. For safety and comfort, there should be a minimum height of 26 inches, with more toward the bow. Toe rails increase safety when stretching to gaff or net a fish. Padded bolsters are a big bonus because they give you something to lean into when you’re battling big pelagics.

A Real-Deal Livewell

Tiny livewells serve as a dead giveaway that a boat wasn’t designed by someone who fishes. The primary livewell on an offshore vessel should hold a minimum of 20 gallons, and 30-plus gallons would be even better. Secondary baitwells can be smaller because they are used as a convenience to cut the distance for anglers at the opposite end of the boat. Livewells should be round or oval, and with strong recirculating pumps. Pumps that reside within a sea chest are the gold standard for offshore center-consoles to prevent air from entering the line when running. The lids should be clear and have a hydraulic dam or friction hinges to prevent banging shut. ­Aquarium-style livewells with clear sides for bait monitoring are also a plus. Consider supplemental aeration systems; these can help keep even the most delicate baitfish lively on long runs.

360 Degrees of Fishability

One of the primary reasons for owning a center-console instead of a dual-console or express boat is the ability to fight a fish or cast from any location around the boat. Any obstruction such as fixed seating on the perimeter can hinder an angler. Fold-down stern benches or flip-up jump seats add seating without taking up space. Large consoles are currently the rage to offer enough real estate for large electronics displays and roomy head compartments, but when they limit walkaround space, it becomes a problem. There should be at least 20 inches in between the gunwale and the console for comfortable transit fore and aft.

Adequate Rod Storage

A good indicator if a center-console is designed as a serious fishing machine is its number of rod holders. If a boat has more cup holders than rod holders, it’s a dayboat. On smaller center-consoles, there should be a minimum of three gunwale holders per side and at least four in the stern, with storage racks under the gunwale. T-tops should have at least four rocket launchers, and if they are high above the deck, there should be some sort of step up to help access them. Some of the better-designed boats can safely stash as many as 60 rods out of the way and ready.

The post 5 Features Every Center-Console Should Have appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Joe Albanese grew up on New York’s Long Island, fishing and clamming in the salt marshes and along open beaches. During his career in conservation, he piloted a variety of vessels through ice fields and along waterways from Alaska to metropolitan New York. But when it comes to chasing stripers, he has developed some distinct ­preferences over the years.

Boat Type

“I prefer center-consoles for my striper fishing, with the open layout lending itself to a variety of fishing techniques. From fly-fishing to light tackle to live bait, it can do it all. Unless you’re going to stick to the marshes, consider an 18-footer as the bare ­minimum. And if your commute involves an inlet that can get snotty, a 22-footer is better. But if you want to take advantage of the inshore tuna bite that has developed in the Northeast in recent years, look at the crop of capable 25-plus-footers that can run out to the 3-mile line and beyond.”

Motors

“I tend to be pretty heavy-handed with the throttle, so I like as much horsepower as I can get. I start my season early and go right through the end, so the ability to outrun weather is important to me. Even if you don’t feel the need for speed, having the most horsepower a hull is rated for will let you cruise at a lower rpm, which should provide some fuel savings.”

On Draft

“However big a boat you choose, you need to consider its draft. If you want to play in the creeks and flats, you need a boat that draws 15 inches or less. But even a heavy 22-footer will still draft less than 16 inches, which should get you just about anywhere that stripers swim. If you plan on spending more time in the ocean than in the bays, you might want to select a hull with more transom deadrise, around 20 degrees or more. You’ll lose some of the shallow-water capabilities, but you’ll be able to cut through waves and chop better.”

Trolling Motors

“In my opinion, there’s no better way to work the creeks than with the aid of a trolling motor. You can come off plane far from where you plan on fishing, and use the trolling motor to sneak into position, getting back into places that you probably couldn’t with your outboard. Trolling motors also excel for probing dock lines, letting you plod along without disturbing fish. Plus, the virtual-anchor feature available on most models lets you easily work a piece of structure or pinch point like a bridge.”

Livewells

“As primarily a fly and light-tackle angler, I don’t need a ton of live-bait capacity. That said, it’s hard to beat the excitement of live-lining bunker for the outsize stripers that have become so common in recent years. My Robalo has a well-designed 15-gallon livewell that can keep eight menhaden lively throughout the day, but if you are a dedicated live-baiter, you might want something with a greater capacity.”

Electronics

“I still find many of my spots using land ranges, but it’s hard to beat the navigation and fish-finding capabilities of today’s electronics. I have a Garmin multifunction display on my helm, which allows me to access a variety of maps and navigation tools via the touchscreen interface. I can also choose from a couple of different sonar frequencies that give me a clear picture of the bottom in depths from single to triple digits.”

Rod Holders

“I tend to head out with fewer sticks than most, but when you put a couple of people on board, rod holders disappear quickly. I like undergunwale storage to keep rods out of the way, particularly fly rods. I keep most of the other rods clustered in vertical holders on the sides of the console, but having a few on the back of the helm seating provides a good place to stash a rod in a hurry. A few gunwale rod ­holders are useful for dead-sticking and the like.”

The post How to Choose the Ideal Striper Boat appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

This could be the shortest column in marine-journalism history. “To determine how much horsepower to put on your boat’s transom, find the manufacturer’s maximum horsepower specification, and whatever number is listed there is the total power to install.” While that’s a good rule of thumb, there might be times when less is more. 

Go for the Max?

One good reason to get the most power possible lies in durability and longevity. The greater the horsepower, the less an engine has to work to keep the boat on plane with greater efficiency. Let’s look at an example. The Pathfinder 2005 TRS with a Yamaha F115 will have to operate at 5,500 rpm to reach 36.5 mph and will get 3.5 mpg. Power the same boat with an F150, and it reaches 35 mph at 4,500 rpm and will get 3.9 mpg, according to the manufacturer-­supplied performance data. This example also illustrates that the notion that less horsepower equals better fuel economy isn’t always true. Top speed is another reason to max out the ponies. More horsepower translates to a higher top speed. Sometimes the difference is dramatic, with a difference of 20 miles per hour or more. Then there’s the resale value. If a buyer is looking at two identical boats and one has more power than the other, they will typically choose and often pay more for the more-powerful boat.

Mo’ Power, Mo’ Money

Often, taking even a small leap in power can cost big bucks. The standard engine on the Blackfin 232DC is the Mercury 225XL FourStroke, but bumping it just 25 hp to the Mercury 250XL will cost $4,921 more. In this case, the big jump comes by moving from the 3.4L family of V-6 engines to a 4.6L V-8 for the 250. When reviewing the build-a-boat feature found on most manufacturers’ websites, compare the cost with different engines, and look for the sweet spot where the least amount of money buys the biggest jump in horsepower. Often, the max-power option is an exotic engine that comes with a larger-than-­proportional price tag.

Less Power Equals Less Weight?

Sometimes, adding more horsepower changes the weight drastically, but an increase in horsepower often adds no weight because it is done via programming the engine’s electronic control unit. For years, Mercury’s supercharged Verados all shared the same 2.6L inline-six-cylinder block, even though the horsepower could range from 200 to 400, with a weight difference of just 38 pounds. 

In the case of the Mercury 225XL V-6 versus the 250XL V-8, the weight difference is 52 pounds, which might not seem like much, but it could be significant on a small flats boat. Using multiple engines just exacerbates the ­difference.

Moving to the largest ­engine can make a huge difference. Mercury’s new Verado 600 is a 7.6L V-12 behemoth with a host of technological advances, but it also weighs 1,260 pounds. Although more weight can cause slower hole-shot times, often this is counterbalanced by the additional horsepower and larger prop that a higher-­horsepower engine can swing.  

Horsepower needs also change if only one or two people routinely use the boat. If you typically invite a crowd of friends to go fishing, powering up to the max might make more sense. Otherwise, the boat can be sluggish and slow to respond to the throttle.

Variables Matter

If a boat weighs more, it’s probably going to need more power, but factors such as the hull design also matter. A Carolina Skiff 21 SWS is a 21-footer that features a relatively flat hull bottom, weighs 2,351 pounds, and has a maximum horsepower rating of 150. The Regulator 23 has a steep 24-degree transom deadrise to help it slice through ocean waves, and weighs 6,700 pounds with a single outboard. The smallest outboard you can buy it with has 300 hp.

If a boat has a transom deadrise of 20 degrees or greater and is run in waters that can get rough, err on the side of more power. During situations such as running through a ripping inlet, having crisp throttle response is often needed to safely transit out or return.

If you’re not sure about how much power to choose, talking to a local dealer is a good idea. They have the experience with and info on the models they sell that can help you make the best possible decision when it comes to the question of horsepower.

The post How Much Horsepower Does Your Boat Really Need? appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

While there are no rules about what constitutes a bay boat or a hybrid, certain features tend to lump boats into one camp or the other. Other boats refuse to be pigeonholed, deftly ­straddling the line. Before you pick one, consider the ­following factors.

Where You Fish Matters

Before deciding which boat is the right one to buy, ­prospective owners can narrow the field by envisioning where they will be doing most of their fishing. If the answer is mostly offshore, skewing to a hybrid makes more sense. 

In the right weather, any boat can go offshore. But when the wind kicks up, it becomes a matter of safety and comfort. Boats with more deadrise draw more water but cleave the waves better, resulting in a smoother ride.

Hybrids are capable of fishing in most inshore areas but can head offshore. Bay boats are usually confined to quieter inshore waters, where their lower gunwales are less worrisome.

Look at the Lineup

Typically, boat companies have their DNA baked into each model, so it can be ­informative to see how their other models stack up.

Companies such as Regulator have made their reputation by building center-consoles that do well in rough water thanks to their deep-V hulls and sturdy builds. But Regulator designers dipped their toes into the hybrid waters with the 26XO Crossover. This 26-foot-9-inch boat has a moderate 17-degree deadrise, weighs 6,780 pounds, and floats in 16 inches of water. It also has an oversize 9-foot-3-inch beam. Compare this with Regulator’s 23 center-­console model, which is 23 feet, 5 inches long and weighs just 60 pounds less than the longer 26XO model. But it has a draft of 21 inches, largely because of its deep-V deadrise of 24 degrees. The 26XO features lower gunwales and a combination U-shaped bow casting deck and bowrider chaise-style lounge seating.

Yellowfin Yachts is yet another builder that used its design and engineering expertise in building offshore boats to create hybrid models that perform and fish well on bluewater expeditions as well as nearshore forays. The popular Yellowfin 26 Hybrid is a prime example. The design offers the best features of the company’s larger center-­consoles combined with a hull design that can take on big seas to pursue pelagics, or creep into shallow waters for redfish or tarpon thanks to a 16-inch draft. Rated for up to 500 hp, the 26 Hybrid can be powered by either a single or twin outboards.

Grady-White jumped into the hybrid market with its 251 Coastal Explorer. Like Regulator, it comes from a heavily offshore-oriented brand. The 251 CE has a cockpit height of 20 inches, which is 7 inches less than Grady-White’s Fisherman 257 center-console. The deadrise is also 4 degrees flatter at 16 degrees, reducing its draft to 14 inches versus the CC’s 20 inches.

Pathfinder Boats has been the bay-boat leader for 30 years. Its parent company, Maverick, builds poling skiffs, so its 2500 Hybrid is the ­vision of a company whose heritage is building skinny-water boats. It markets this model with the mullet-esque motto: “Inshore in the front. Offshore in the back.” The most prominent inshore trait is the huge, raised foredeck perfect for fly-fishing. But step down into the cockpit, and the gunwale height is taller for safer fishing offshore. It’s a nearly 25-foot boat that has a draft of only 13 inches, thanks to its moderate 16-degree deadrise.

Some hybrid models, including the Robalo Cayman 266, have many bay-boat features that blur the line between the two genres. It’s 26 feet, 6 inches long, with a 9-foot-4-inch beam and a healthy 18 degrees of deadrise that pushes its draft to 17 inches. But it has a flush-to-the-gunwale rear casting deck with a raised foredeck that is high enough for sight-casting.

Choosing between a ­hybrid, bay boat, and the models that fall between means looking at features and deciding which matches up best with your fishing style. Prioritize a list of must-haves to narrow the field and find your perfect boat.

The post Bay Boat vs. Hybrid appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.